One-woman-business BONOBO is led by Kristi Kalluste, who is in pursuit of making the purest ointments of Nordic power herbs. Savant talked to Kristi about her journey.
By Evelin Kangur
Read More#WomenWhoWork Behind the Beauty Industry: Interview with Product Developer of Turbliss
It’s not just the founders that pave the way for ethical and natural cosmetics, but the people behind the scenes, although often understated, play a crucial role as well. I had the amazing opportunity to share a cuppa with Triin Truu, a product developer and lab enthusiast from Estonia. Triin works as a product developer for Turbliss, an Estonian beauty brand drawing its power from peat, offering a range of bioactive products for your hair and skin for daily use. A natural beauty herself, she’s a true inspiration for finding your way into vegan cosmetics. At a quaint café in Tartu, Estonia, we delved into the behind the scenes of beauty industry.
Words: Johanna Raudsepp
Triin Truu, Product Developer of Turbliss.
Let’s start with you. How did you find your way to genetics?
Well, I was born in Viljandi [Estonia]. I had always enjoyed biology. I remember seeing some documentary about genome therapy, and then I thought to myself, “Wow, this is really game-changing – I want to do that!”. That’s when I knew I would be studying genome technology at the University of Tartu. I was convinced that this was my true calling.
What brought the big change? I feel that sometimes university programmes can really disappoint. How did it go with you?
In high-school I used to be rather quiet and shy. But I feel like I completely changed during university years. They always try to make students more active and make them take part in different social activities. So, I ended up in the group of people who organised all the parties and events. The experience I gained made me open up.
To be honest, I was a bit disappointed. I had this huge dream of working with people and learning about the human body. But it ended up being more focused on bacteria! That’s when I really had to re-think my choices.
From there, losing your interest in studying genetics, you ended up working for Turbliss, a brand that focuses on a range of natural peat skincare and haircare products. Seems like quite a big U-turn.
In a way, it was, because it wasn’t anything I had ever considered before. However, I realised that I love make-up and I love beauty, so why not use my skills for that? I started to focus more on microbiology and learn more about the skin structure and how it functions. A good thing about my programme was that I got a lot of laboratory experience, which is what I essentially do today – I work in a lab and stir up new things from natural ingredients.
Now that you work in a natural cosmetics company, has your beauty routine changed at all?
I use less make-up now for sure [laughs]. I definitely value sleep more. When I do use make-up, I try to go for naturally-made products. I like Ontic Minerals, which is an Estonian brand and they don’t add anything extra – it’s clean and exactly what you need for everyday. I used to use regular cosmetics brands when going out, but just that one night caused my skin to lash out and look terrible.
"I had this huge dream of working with people and learning about the human body. But it ended up being more focused on bacteria!"
Where does the difference come from? We often try to compare 'natural' with ‘regular’, but what is that determing factor in, for example, face creams?
The pH level is really important. For me, it’s important that the pH level is similar to our skin's own – around 5.5. Turbliss has a peat tonic that has quite a low pH level. It helps strengthen the skin and bring down the pH level, if you use other [chemical] products. Now, what happens when the pH is too high in a product is that your skin becomes dry and the wrong bacteria feel more at home – and that’s not good for your skin. More itchiness, redness – the unpleasant things.
"What happens when the pH is too high in a product is that your skin becomes dry and the wrong bacteria feel more at home – and that’s not good for your skin."
I think it’s really important nowadays to know what you are buying and where it comes from. What’s your take on sustainable consumption and lifestyle choices, and how do you apply it in your life?
That’s an interesting topic, actually. I was just discussing the new plastic bag campaign with my granddad yesterday. They stopped giving out those small plastic bags in supermarkets in Estonia. But we realised that, surely, it does reduce the amount of plastic bags in circulation, but a lot of our food is still packaged and stored in plastic. There’s two sides to every coin. I try to use canvas bags when I go shopping. I think that if we want to call for change, we need to start the change from ourselves.
Like in those zero-waste stores in Germany and Denmark, and there are a few here in Estonia, too. They have a package-free concept.
Exactly. At first I thought I was weird when I put unpacked fruit and veggies on the counter, but it’s a tiny way to help the environment. That’s one thing I really like about Turbliss products as well – we use glass packaging, which can later be easily recycled.
Another aspect of appreciating slow living is spending more time with yourself and not rushing everywhere. How do you like to unwind?
I enjoy hiking in the forest on weekends or taking the dog out to the seaside. My dog loves it so much! I like travelling, too, especially in Estonia. There are so many strange places to discover here. I know I work with peat, but I really love our bogs. Time just stands still there. It’s just you, the silence, and the fresh air.
If you could explore a place anywhere in the world, where would you go?
Probably somewhere in the Carribbean. You know, the first thought that popped into my head was that I’d go to my summer home in the country. Build a summer kitchen, make a herb garden and grow herbs. My boyfriend and I really enjoy cooking. It’s a great way to spend time together.
Finally, what advice would you give on cosmetics to our readers?
It’s not all about the brands – sometimes small and less known brands make products just as great, only that it won’t cost you an arm and a leg to buy it. Don’t hesitate to read the ingredients and ask for assistance. Usually, ingredients with very complicated chemical names are actually some very basic compound, like coconut oil. Less is more. With a lot of ethical natural cosmetics brands you get what you need – no bullshit. And that’s what I love about it.
Aparaaditehas, Tartu: Slow Store Opens Its Doors
Words: Johanna Raudsepp
We are glad to announce that our friends and partners from Slow.ee have now opened their very first slow fashion store in Tartu, Estonia! The brand new Slow Store is located at Aparaaditehas (Apparatus Factory), which has long been a fantastic new lifestyle hub connecting sustainable design, creativity and food, enjoyed by the young and the old alike.
The open conceptual space with high windows truly emphasizes taking it slow - taking that moment to breathe and being grateful for the simple things in life. Slow features a variety of conscious fashion brands and beauty products, but when it comes to product choices, sky is the limit! They also showcase sustainable lifestyle products and tasty treats. I got to try vegan chocolate from their shop and it was a-ma-zing.
Where is Slow heading now? Store owner and sustainability activist, Helen Puistaja, tells us the aim now is to go with the flow. “We have worked extremely hard to achieve this dream of having our own Slow store. Now that it’s here, we just want to take it all in and enjoy the moment.”
“I’m actually curious to know what items and brands our clients love most,” says Helen. She is looking forward to other curious minds coming in and discovering the realm of slow life. And let me tell you - it is definitely worth checking out! One’s own eye is the king.
Dreams Vs Reality: Kelpman Textile Sustainable Wool Coats
Hailing from Estonia, textile designer Mare Kelpman creates thick blanket-like wool coats that warm up even in the coldest nights of Nordic winter. Kelpman Textile’s latest collection Sophy combines sustainable design, architectural elegance and Nordic simplicity. Her unique patterns laced with asymmetry and artistic colour combinations are beautifully eye-catching. What inspires such magnificent design?, we ask.
Words: Johanna Raudsepp
Sophy collection wool coats by Kelpman Textile, 2016.
We love seeing designers with an eco-friendly approach cropping up in the Scandinavian region, but we must admit this way of looking at design has not conquered the world yet. Why have you chosen to pursue sustainable approach in textile design?
For a while I taught at the Estonian Academy of Arts and I always urged my students to think what to do and how to execute it. [I’ve always advised students that] if you don’t have a sustainable idea, then seriously consider, if it’s worth creating at all. Following this path is pricey, which is why it’s marginal – the profit won’t be great nor happen fast. The way I see it, for me there is simply no other way – the joy from creating is far more important than the profit you make. I don’t see any reason to overwhelm the world with even more synthetic things.
Sophy collection wool coats by Kelpman Textile, 2016.
What are the setbacks you have experienced following the sustainable route?
I can’t say that I have. More or less so, I have encountered the expected issues of having a small business and finding the right partners, who are flexible to fulfil orders of all sizes. In Estonia, my products were initially received with jaws dropped– what do you mean you’re making wool clothing? Where’s the glamour and affluence usually en vogue in the local fashion scene? I exhibited my products at many foreign fairs and finally got the reassurance I’m doing the right thing. Now I’ve realised that small businesses emphasising natural textiles are emerging, too.
What inspires you in creating different textiles?
Primarily the people who I create for in my head. I feel like I know my potential client quite well. However, focusing only on the commercial side doesn’t work either. I am inspired by rhythms and colours from nature and architecture. What really drives me is conquering technological challenges. You can dream of different fabrics and structures all you want, but it really comes down to the technical ability of the partners. Creating textiles requires a compromise between dreams and reality.
“The joy from creating is far more important than the profit you make.”
What material do enjoy working with the most?
Right now, my favourite is wool, as you can see from my product range. But every material can be challenging to work with, if you choose the right approach. For example, in the summer season I reach for linen and a little bit of silk as well. Wool is a material for which you don’t have to kill or exhaust dry land, as sheep require shearing. Since I only work with European materials, I know where and how the yarn is created, in what conditions and I can be sure that it’s also certified. I produce all my products and fabrics in Europe and I know those small factories well.
“Creating textiles requires a compromise between dreams and reality.”
Sophy collection wool coats by Kelpman Textile, 2016.
If you had to compare your design to a natural phenomenon, what would it be and why?
Perhaps the refreshing morning dew before a hot day. Freshens the air.
What can we look forward to in 2017?
Hopefully great execution of some fresh ideas. A year ago, I didn’t even plan on having my own store. Now that has been set up and gotten a lot of positive feedback. I like to let life surprise me and am open to new challenges on the way.
Find Mare Kelpman's designs in Tallinn, Estonia, at the Kelpman Textile store, or online at www.marekelpman.eu.
LUMI: Uniting Nature + Science in their Tundra Range — #EcoBeauty
Our skin health is something we often take for granted in the approaching winter months. Yet we all want to look and feel forever young, and that takes at least some effort. Instead of turning to quizzical chemical-packed serums and moisturisers, treating your skin with natural, organic beauty products can help to boost your skin’s own glow and enhance that desired, sleek au naturel look. Could Estonian cosmetics brand LUMI be the next innovation in skincare, taking you a step closer to preserving your youth?
Words: Johanna Raudsepp
LUMI: Tundra Range, 2016.
I had the glorious opportunity to test out their new product line called Tundra over the past two weeks. Consisting of the AHA-BHA cleansing milk, AHA-BHA moisturising cream and yarrow mist with salicylic acid, LUMI’s Tundra is a complete skincare routine set. Their natural components, like willow, rosemary and hemp seed oil, form a combination that instantly revives your skin. I have never felt so confident in my own skin — during the test weeks, I didn’t reach for make-up even once!
These all-natural products boast a distinct, aromatic scent — all three products take your senses into the tundra. It reminded me of a mossy forest and I could almost hear a crystal-clear river bubbling away in the background. What’s unique about these products is that the entire range is unisex, suitable for everyday use for both men and women.
Curious to find out more about the products that have given my skin a healthy glow (and even added a pep to my step), I asked LUMI a bit more about their new Tundra range and the secret of beauty, of course.
You have released your new Tundra line. What inspired this product line? What makes it special?
Our aim was to create products for acne-prone skin, which would rejuvenate and be effective, yet natural at the same time. Research has shown that up to 85% of people have to deal with acne at some stage in their lives — 20% of whom experience this in adulthood as well.
LUMI's Tundra is special because of its carefully picked natural ingredients and a wholesome skincare routine set-up. It restores and renews, and battles inflammation. Naturally we believe that great skin starts from the inside. Nevertheless, your skincare routine should work on different fronts.
"By mixing botanics with safe, lab-made synthetic compounds, we can create a sustainable, environmentally-friendly product. Integrity is also important — the harmony between our body, spirit and senses."
The metallic green design of LUMI's Tundra symbolises development, growth and the path to becoming someone or something better. Just like the permafrost in tundra rivers hinders erosion, the excess keratinisation of the skin hinders its natural processes, creating a good surface for inflammation. Forget about the scrubs and products with different chemicals — natural moisturising products are what the skin actually needs.
LUMI: Tundra Range, 2016.
At Savant, we believe that slow lifestyle with all its nuances will slowly but surely find its way to our everyday lives. So much so, that one day people will make educated choices about all their product purchases. How does LUMI envision the future of the world of cosmetics?
We agree – people will definitely be making smarter, more conscious choices about what they buy. We hear more and more about cosmetics that fight skin-stress and pollution. As natural resources aren’t infinite, we think the future will see more sustainable cosmetics. By mixing botanics with safe, lab-made synthetic compounds, we can create a sustainable, environmentally-friendly product. Integrity is also important — the harmony between our body, spirit and senses.
"The metallic green design of LUMI's Tundra symbolises development, growth and the path to becoming someone or something better."
They say that first impressions are everything. If LUMI passed from us on the street, what would she look like? What is LUMI’s beauty secret?
LUMI is confident and sophisticated. She is an educated person, who has seen life, has good manners, but isn’t naive or stubborn. LUMI shares their knowledge and experiences with their friends, enlightening them with fresh ideas and new trends. LUMI is warm, open-minded, and Nordic in their mindset — modern and minimalist. The secret to her beauty lies in scientifically certified natural products, comprising of carefully picked ingredients, which she would recommend to friends or family any day. LUMI is inspiring, encouraging, motivating and enthusiastic, infecting others with their positivity. She is trendy, but always adds a personal touch to everything, making her unique.
Slow.ee — Pioneering Estonian Eco Fashion Revolution
Helen Puistaja — founder of the first online slow fashion boutique Slow.ee — is on an altruistic mission of bringing eco fashion closer to the Estonian public, and make it more accessible in our half-Scandi land. She assures that the eco revolution hasn’t happened rapidly, but Estonians are more conscious about their consumption habits than ever before. I met Helen at a quaint cafe in my hometown, Tartu, to talk the present and future of eco fashion in Estonia. What an honour to exchange ideas with a brave woman pioneer dedicated to changing things one generation at a time…
Helen Puistaja, founder of Slow.ee
Personally, I find your idea of a slow fashion concept store relatively unique in the Estonian market. What were the main concerns in this infinite fight between the fashion industry and the environment (large-scale and the ones you considered on a personal level) that informed the creation of Slow.ee?
The idea preceded already about 5 years, but I somewhat sensed that back then people were not ready for my vision as such. Originally, it started when me and my sister were facing an infinite dilemma of where to get the most basic clothes in Estonia — the most simple, ‘everyday uniform’ type clothes, such as black and white T-shirt, tight black jeans, the most basic sneakers, that would also be of good quality, and we felt like these items were impossible to find in Estonia at the time. So for a while we were playing around with the idea of a store specialising in wardrobe basic items, but then I went to Germany for a year and we somehow dropped it. After a year, though, my thinking had changed and I had also turned into a vegan, which had invoked another level of thinking — I was more concerned about the environmental impact of fashion-making than ever before, so I knew there needs to be an ethical twist to it. I wasn’t really contemplating the concept and its necessity, because I generally have this attitude in life that if an idea pops into my mind I immediately execute it, trusting my gut instinct. I don’t even bother to go into too much detail, but just consider the fact that ‘oh, there’s a gap in the market’, nothing similar exists in Tartu yet. So, Slow.ee was born.
“I generally have this attitude in life that if an idea pops into my mind I immediately execute it, trusting my gut instinct.”
Nothing similar existed in Tartu, but elsewhere in Estonia? How does your approach stand out?
There are actually three similar boutiques in Estonia, but they’re all located in Tallinn [our capital]. It seems to me that they are focusing on eco fashion and strictly certified items, but what was particularly missing from their approach was focusing on educating the consumer about the environment and the impact of fast fashion. They’re style direction — what I perceive as romantic and hippie — is also a polar opposite to mine. I didn’t notice too many classic, everyday basics within their selection.
What's your initial reaction to the cliche that perceives eco fashion as something not as glamorous, e.g. namby-pamby linen cloth products that look a bit outdated. On the other hand, we see fast fashion as something desirable — piling those fashion items high into our shopping basket offers us fulfilment, we are gaining immediate gratitude from simply buying those items. However, do you feel that people’s attitudes are starting to change?
Considering [the realm of] Estonian market, I truly understand where this perspective comes from — there are not many sustainable fashion alternatives on offer to balance it out. We still only have a choice of hippie dresses and those flowers and fairies, but a lot of excellent brands are out there and slowly cropping up here as well to offer balance to the market. I also hope to bring them closer to the Estonian public. You brought out the fast fashion issue and the satisfaction we gain from buying [new things], which could be related to psychology. By no means I am an expert, but I had a thought that, from an early age, we are being sold that idea of ‘shopping makes you happy’. So often we are just buying new things and new things, without focusing on our main problem, and [find it easier to] kill it with the good emotions we gain from the act of consumption. It is easier to show the audience that the other side of fashion has a lot of variety to offer than root out the necessity to constantly consume and crave and seize for new things. It is a deeply-rooted concern; addiction which takes years to reverse.
Slow.ee PopUp at Tartu Kaubamaja, September 2016
Where does this phenomenon come from that we see shopping as a reward — we subconsciously hide our true concerns behind conspicuous consumption and mindless buying craze, and also tell our children that ‘If you behave well, I will treat you to some goodies, I will reward you with a treat or two.’
It is the easiest way [to deal with it]! It is an easy way out, especially when it comes to kids, who see things and want chocolate and candy in the shop. If the kid wants something and is shouting in the store, then you cannot put up with [the unpleasant scene] in front of everyone. And when they get the treat, then they become completely silent immediately.
Perhaps it is to do with us spending too much time in those artificial environments these days — all our entertainment revolves around huge shopping centres, whereas it is inseparable that when the children drag along and see fancy things, they immediately want them too. How do we get out of that vicious cycle of consuming things and perhaps realise that there are other ways of spending our leisure time?
I think these issues are all interrelated. It is not only about buying better quality clothes, which are better for the environment and therefore for our health, but it is also attached to the concept of personal development. After all, it is an individual matter to come to this realisation — you yourself need to force yourself out of that cycle of commercialism and reflect more on yourself to make rational decisions and understand that you don’t need that new item to be happy. Firstly, you should always ask yourself, perhaps there’s something else missing in your life, it might be that somewhere deep inside there’s another reason behind [craving for a thing].
So you believe that every person has an individual responsibility to open their eyes to the idea of environmental responsibility?
It can be approached on many different levels and through various layers of importance — starting from your own health to [what is to do with] the environment. The easiest way to convince parents to act greener is the fact that they always want the best for their children and they don’t want to wrap their child into those clothes full of chemicals. Last week I held a presentation at a kindergarten, and I find it a very clever approach to speak to people to whom the future we build for ourselves and our children is more tangible. I want to do things better for the world simply to be a better place, but I don’t have this particular person in mind whom I am doing it for, but parents have that special person because of whom they should do things in a more considerate way. Nothing will change overnight, but let’s take it generation by generation then.
“[…] From an early age, we are being sold that idea of ‘shopping makes you happy’. Often we are just buying new things and new things, without focusing on our main problem, and kill it with the good emotions we gain from the act of consumption.”
How did parents react to your presentation?
I only had limited time to speak, so I used the shock therapy method. I showed them images like, here’s a child sitting on top of a dumping ground, that is the reality. A young, exploited child sewing somewhere in a dirty factory, that is the reality. To see the images of the huge amount of sewage water that drains into the natural waters from plantations and factories, is only one side of the coin, but I think this is what people have the strongest reaction to. There they sat and stared with petrified faces…
Don’t you often get the impression that these problems and concerns seem somewhat distant, so out of reach from us? For example, we often hear the news that somewhere in Bangladesh a factory collapsed, and immediately think, who cares? What we actually don’t realise is that we are contributing to these incidents on a daily basis by buying those fashion items, toys and homeware, which are crafted by children of the Developing World.
During the presentation I gave at the kindergarten the headmaster pointed out savvily that, “we feel like they are extremely unhygienic and unkempt there, but it is our rubbish they are sitting in.” She was confronted with the epiphany that this little human is sitting on top of our rubbish, not on someone else’s rubbish. Of course, there will always be people who couldn’t care less about preserving our environment, and there’s nothing much to do about it. But if you take that garment full of chemicals and wash it in the washing machine here, then the infused chemicals reach us one way or another. Then comes the time we have to learn to take responsibility for it.
Of course, we are often presented with the beautiful lie that they are actually happy to have that job in a factory mass producing clothes…
They are! Because they don’t know a better way. Perhaps it is the best choice for them out of all choices, but it doesn’t justify the sad reality — exploitation of these young people.
I’ve also noticed that slow fashion still stands on the pricier side of the market compared to its Fast Fashion sister. To me it seems like stating the obvious, considering the high production costs and ethical approach, but how has the audience’s reaction been so far — do they perceive eco fashion as something lavishly expensive or affordable?
I have also tried to take in orders for goods that are more affordable. However, I’ve been keeping in mind that the things I offer cannot be too cheap. In order to cherish the item more, you need to think the purchase through and ask yourself a few questions — how to combine it with the already existing pieces in your wardrobe; how does it go together with your personality. I want the customer to see it as an investment — she is willing to spend a larger amount, because that way it also lasts for longer. My target audience — of course, all people could act more considerate and consume better — are people who have already found their own style and know that the lifespan of the purchased item will be infinite. I am that person myself… I know nothing about fashion! On the other hand, I have developed my own unique style over the years, which is not very significant, but I feel good in my own skin wearing my signature clothes, and when I do buy something, I wear it at least for a year…two… three… four, maybe even longer.
And when you divide the cost of the product with the number of years worn…
It is overall much cheaper indeed.
As a true fashionista, I am also struggling with the results of excessive fashion consumption habits in the past — I’ve got heaps and heaps of old garments, which I’ve disregarded for long and, as a result, I cannot find a way to get rid of them anymore. It just seems to me as a mindless waste, both financially and environmentally.
I would also like to highlight that I don’t support mindless wasting. That comes without saying that when people all of a sudden realise they should consume less and invest in better quality, durable clothes, then it necessarily doesn’t mean they have to swap their wardrobe against a new one. The items that already exist should be used until they last, without the attitude that “I am now environmentally conscious and I only need to consume organic clothes.” I am also struggling with finding the best option to send off the old items to recycling.
Tell me more about the brands you’ve chosen to introduce to the Estonian market. According to which criteria did you select them? Do you keep your own personal taste in mind, or think that, ‘I don’t actually like it, but my customers certainly do’?
I aim to keep a characteristic line in the selection of products, not to diffuse things unreasonably, because my aim is that the regular customer, who comes every once in a while, knows that they will certainly find items of a specific style from my store. If I would only consider my own personal taste, my store wouldn’t be customer-friendly at all! (laughs). It would be only for a strictly limited audience then. When I fill in the orders, I usually have specific prototypes in mind — people whose opinion matters and to whom I turn to when I need advice about product selection.
When I was studying in London and my course was completing our final major project, our tutors would often ask in awe, “Who do you keep in mind, when designing these products?”. There were artworks that were designed in a very incompetent way and we would often answer, “Don’t worry, I personally also don’t like it, but the one who purchases it, will adore it, hands down”. I think it also cannot be that controversial…
Agree! Well, of course I am considering what the consumer thinks, but I also have to remain true to my own vision — if I am doing it alone now, then it is my brand, my soul that has been poured out to take a form of a store, and I cannot do it inadvertently at this stage. I am always trying to look for the middle ground bringing together my own personal taste and an understanding of what the customer wants and needs.
Do you believe that slow fashion is still targeted at the niche market? Who is your actual target audience? You already mentioned earlier that someone who has already found their own personal style. Do you have anything else to add to this equation?
I wouldn’t say that slow is the right word to use here, but consuming consciously is certainly becoming more trendy and common here, more than it was a few years back.
Well, the brands you represent, use specific principles to be more environmentally considerate…
After all, the reality of things is, for making ends meet, you need to sell your products. This is the…
Together: Point of conflict!
Did I understand correctly — you can produce something ethical, but when you sell it in large quantities, then the end result comes across as completely unethical?
When you look at the entire process as a whole, it is absolutely acceptable that people need clothes and they want clothes, nothing wrong with that, but then we should start from the fact that the items we wear have been crafted keeping the nature and people in mind, and when the garment reaches the end of its lifespan, then it is crucial it won’t be thrown out to the dumping ground immediately, but the whole recycling process has to complete the full circle. Then the act of consumption becomes more reasoned and thought-through, too.
How would you evaluate the slow movement in Estonia compared to Scandinavia and the rest of Europe? Assuming that they already stand a step ahead of us, how could we progress to their level? How could we fill in that education gap when the subject of living greener is concerned?
To be honest, I preserve it more as a natural process, but as much as I’ve kept track [of the progress], it can be said Estonia is still a step behind. Although I think that the progress gap is not immeasurable anymore — people are more aware of the harmful effects of overconsumption and thinking green has become valuable. Of course I can perceive the rapid change in the mindset and general attitudes more sharply due to the fact that I am also an active member of the vegan community here.
Oh, veganism has become an entire movement on its own in Estonia.
Yes, all of a sudden there are vegan cafes popping up everywhere and we also boast a wide variety of organic food stores. Judging by that, I think we shouldn’t define the gap in being slow in progress — we only need more activists, who create these stores and make whole foods and the organic produce more accessible [for the everyday consumer].
One thing I have noticed, though, is that everywhere in Europe, the excessive use of plastic bags is strictly prohibited, but Estonians haven’t adopted that policy yet…
Not to mention that a few days back I just got angry with Selver [my local food store], where there was a striker on the food scale saying: “Please place all the products with different prices in a separate plastic bag.” AAAAGGHHH! Pure nonsense!
I also believe that they should at least encourage using paper bags, or…
Why do I need to place a single item in a plastic bag? I can weigh a single tomato without it.
That is indeed ridiculous.
I do understand there will always be people who would place even their single carrot in a plastic bag, but the store has a responsibility not to encourage it. I cannot buy any food products that are wrapped in heavy plastic packaging… in Estonia, they sell leek wrapped in plastic. If I see something like that, I just refuse to buy it.
“My target audience — of course, all people could act more considerate and consume better — are people who have already found their own style and know that the lifespan of the purchased item will be infinite. I am that person myself… I know nothing about fashion!”
What other environmentally responsible principles do you follow in your everyday life? Apart from being a vegan…
I hate wasting water. Although our bad habit of letting the tap run freely while we are brushing our teeth is not even comparable to the amount of water wasted on growing cotton in India, but I try to avoid wasting water as much as possible. Also, as mentioned, I am not fond of using heavy packaging. The loveliest surprise awaiting me when I moved to my new flat was that next to our building are 4 separate recycling bins — one for general waste, one for plastic and packaging, one for cardboard and one for organic waste. Now I recycle everything separately. No one is an über-human, but at least as much as I humanly can.
Have you also reduced consuming fast fashion?
To be fair, I have never been particularly fond of shopping — when I was brought up I was always encouraged to think my purchases through. I still belong to the generation who remembers the time when everything wasn’t so easily accessible and available in our market, so it is fairly a modern-day concern, when you have limitless opportunity to consume and consume.
Maybe partially this could be the reason why Estonians are reluctant to accepting eco fashion and consuming less, because we are so used to not having anything available…
And now we have more than enough, so we have to take advantage of it! Maybe that’s the reason why it takes longer for us to understand that we are better off with consuming less.
In a nutshell, could you bring out a specific aspect that concerns you the most related to your start-up?
To be fair, in Estonia there are thousands of people who are dedicated and ambitious; who are willing to invest all their free time to help and work 12 hours in a row, but in the end it all comes down to the finances and readiness to act. But it is not a hindrance at the moment. We can do it!
I would again like to point out that we are inserted into this materialistic and superficial cultural environment that encourages consumption and therefore we also encourage our children to look for the missing happiness in rewards we can buy only with money. How to change that mindset and replace it with thinking greener? Pitch me an effective action plan.
I think everyone needs to come to that conclusion themselves that this cannot go on any longer. What we can do is to educate people as much as in our will and be a positive example. Sadly, the way it works with certain things in life is that when you force them upon people, then they refuse to conform, and as a result, act in a reverse way. We certainly don’t want that. I personally try to offer a variety of possibilities — to filter the products according to my own vision and ideals, to educate people on the negative effects of consumption and be an exemplary figure in thinking green. And then everyone individually slowly gets there in their own pace, if they do…
How is your experiment called pineapple leather versus Estonian weather progressing? (hinting at the shoes made of Pinatex leather [pineapple leaves fibres] Helen is wearing)
They haven’t seen any rain yet! I also haven’t deliberately jumped into shower with them to test the water resistance, but they are extremely comfy and allow the feet to breathe.
So you recommend them? Will they be available for us to buy?
I have introduced only a couple of pairs at the moment. My final e-store launches in October and then feel free to order and test out yourself!
Where do you keep your inventory and send the products out?
Under the kitchen cupboard. I have a teeny-tiny apartment and you wouldn’t even notice that there’s a whole store full of goodies hidden somewhere… everything is perfectly fitted in.
Thinking economically! Both laugh out loud.
Lately, Slow.ee PopUp store could be spotted at Tartu Kaubamaja, (expectedly) from December onwards, Slow boutique will be open to customers in the newly-refurbished Aparaaditehas…