A by B · COME Treasury Rugs: Stories of Artisanal Subtlety

B·COME is an ethical fashion studio and sustainable supplier agency located in Barcelona. We believe that sustainable fashion and green design is the future. We build strong professional relationships between suppliers, artisans, and brands. Our aim is to endeavor for ALL us to be the protagonist of the change.  Our main job implies to discover. Discovering and travelling is, without a doubt, what we truly love.

Alba Garcia and Anna Cañadell, B·COME Studio

How did you discover Treasury rugs? Describe your journey to India and discovering the rugs.

India is almost like our second home. Every two months we land into this wonderful destination filled with culture, colours and emotional sensations. Chance and luck often accompany us on our trips. During one of our trips, precisely, was where we found these treasures in the form of rugs. We were exploring the enchanting corners of Jaipur and we spontaneously decided to visit one of our supplier whom we had encountered at a fair in Delhi. Our first sensation when we saw the rugs was an instant crush, we felt "in love”. The harmony between the colour the detailed technique of each rug caught our attention. It was then when B ·COME´s first more personal project “A by B ·COME” was born.

What makes them unique?

The rugs are authentic and unique, as they are made by hand by passionate and loving artisans. Each rug has its own story and uniqueness to it. The subtlety of colors and the energy of the piece, reciting the country it comes from, is just fascinating. They aren't simply objects of home decor, but treasures from India that you could keep forever and, only by looking at them, instantly feel the energy of the country.

"They aren't simply objects of home decor, but treasures from India that you could keep forever and, only by looking at them, instantly feel the energy of the country."

What are the main techniques used and what puts an artisanal quality stamp on it?

"A by B· COME " rugs are made by a traditional Indian technique known as block print. It is the earliest and slowest process of textile printing due to its detailed designs, which are often impossible to recreate with other printing methods. Yet, it remains one of the most vivid techniques in India today.

Originally from Rajasthan, India, the method consists of creating their own carved wood designs that are later covered with colour and printed onto fabrics and paper by hand. The result is an imperfect art endowed with intention, emotion, and virtue. Each piece of block-printed fabric reflects the rich history of an ancient tradition, as well as the unique style of the artisans who made it.

 

"Each piece of block-printed fabric reflects the rich history of an ancient tradition, as well as the unique style of the artisans who made it."

Why is the heritage of traditional skills, like block print, important? Why we should help to preserve and cherish these skills and traditions deriving from India?

For B ·COME, quality and design are as important as the way things are made. Our main objective is to strive and empower all to become protagonists of change. We admire the work of artisans all around the world.

Even though technology has opened a wide door to opportunities to create new solutions and facilitate the production process, we are captivated by the life and work of artisans. Their imperfect artisanal products that have a whole story behind surprise ourselves every time we travel. We are excited to get to know about unique textile techniques, especially when those techniques have a whole history behind, such as block print.

When you see HOW and WHY in the first person, you understand and respect craftsmanship as an art. You create a close relationship with the people who have made it, and when they so passionately explain how things are done, you cannot help yourself to fall in love.

What are the main themes and stories running through the artisanal, handcrafted rug line?

For us, the thread is driver of colour, the sensitivity in the use of it. There are styles for all, but all of the rugs breathe serenity, subtlety, and stillness.

Our short story of “A by B ·COME “. From the small corners of India, our treasury rugs learn to fly through the deep blue sea. Lola, their flying lecturer is a world-traveller seeking to find beauty in artisanal objects around the planet. The treasury rugs love her, they want to embrace her and never leave her. Nevertheless, they know they have to undertake a trip in order to accomplish their mission. Along their journey, the rugs were amazed by the wonders of the universe, they observed unknown destinations and fulfilled themselves with experiences.

Behind each rug is a hidden story full of extraordinary moments. From the way they were brought to life, to their flying experience, as of course they had to rest in order to recover and arrive to their destination. They are seeking to find themselves a place where they can feel as home and offer their love as they did with Lola. But from time to time, you must let her fly!

"Our main objective is to strive and empower all to become protagonists of change."

What spaces could benefit from having a Treasury rug? What are their place and meaning in the interior the way you imagine it?

We believe that the space is determined by the personality and taste of each individual. Each rug will attract a different person according to its character and taste. We believe that having a Treasury rug could benefit spaces where they go beyond being perceived as interior objects, but as pieces that can bring back memories, tradition and history.

We imagine the rugs in spaces with delicate lights, neutral or with color, kitchens, bathrooms, rooms, small and big, living rooms. We have different sizes for the rugs to adjust to everyone. The smallest one of 0,90 X 0,60m is a perfect measure to give a touch of color and personality to a room or a closet.

We also have a big size of 1,20 X 1,50m where we imagine wide spaces which help to create amplitude and contrasts. Finally, we have the large rugs of  3,00 x 2,00 meters that we imagine in large outer spaces and terraces.

We adore contrasts. Treasury rugs create story according to current events and serve as a product with ethical values that goes beyond pure aesthetics.

"We believe that having a treasury rug could benefit spaces where they go beyond being perceived as interior objects, but as pieces that can bring back memories, tradition and history."

How do these rugs stand in line with B·Come's hard work so far advocating sustainability principles and transparency?

A by B·COME is completely aligned with B·COME´s philosophy. Since the moment we saw them, we understood and lived the art of block print in first person, namely, the conditions of the workers and the products used to make this art happen. The Treasury rugs are made with a noble cotton base, the color dye used is toxic free, and the technique is performed only in solar time, in fact, this technique is conditioned by atmospheric conditions.

Tell us a good reason, what makes an artisanal rug worth having in the first place?

As mentioned previously, block print is more than a technique, it's an art. We believe that having Treasury rugs for our project A by B ·COME is more than having an interior design object, but a story to complement your house, studio, your life.

Our mission is to transmit the essence of the country through treasures from India. In this case, the rugs become a piece of art or a memory, in which you know that every time you would look at it will remind you of the beautiful and fruitful county India is. We have selected different designs and patterns to allow people to choose according to their taste, personality and energy.

How can we get hold of one of your selected rugs?

For the moment, we are still looking and studying the best method to allow every person in the world to have access to our treasury rugs. For now, the orders can be directly done via mail to info@bcomestudio.com at B·COME.

We are in the process of selecting unique concept stores, who have a similar philosophy as B·COME.

We would love to mention Rita Puig Serra, a young and aspiring photographer based in Barcelona. As without her,  her eye and camera we could not bring the essence and image of A by B·COME to live.


Visit their website and make sure to follow them on Instagram.

Read more here. 

 

Everyday Ethical Luxury from Berlin: LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories

One of my favourite things about ethical fashion is how it urges creators to think outside of the box and be innovative in their entire design process. LUCKYNELLY’s animal-friendly ethos focuses on bold, elevated everyday luxury accessories. Made in Berlin, yet produced in Milan, LUCKYNELLY is challenging the norm of sustainability. From bags to jewellery to silk scarves - yes, even including touches of ethical silk! - their everyday goodies are true show-stoppers. Christine Rochlitz, founder of LUCKYNELLY, shared her take on slow design accessories.

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

Your entire brand focuses deeply on ethical creation. What do you value most about sustainable design?

For me, sustainable design means a slower approach [to creating] where no mass consumption principles are implemented. I remember when I was a teenager, there was a denim store near my hometown. I loved to wear super skinny denim from Levi’s and, at this time, they were already quite expensive. I had one pair in blue and one in black. I wore them for a few years and was always so proud of my jeans. 

Today, with all those big fast fashion chains, you don’t have the opportunity to ‘love’ your clothes because fashion and new trends change too fast, and it leaves you forever with an unsatisfactory feeling. Quality should really be more important than quantity. As Vivienne Westwood put it: 'Buy less, choose well, make it last.'

What's your take on slow living?

Slow living to me means that you focus more on things that are really important in life, like being happy, spending time with family and friends or pets, being outside, and spending time cooking. People are living at a fast pace every day, so they are always overwhelmed and their lives are non-stop, chaotic. I think it is time to enjoy life more and to flee of all this pressure.

"Today, with all those big fast fashion chains, you don’t have the opportunity to ‘love’ your clothes because fashion and new trends change too fast, and it leaves you forever with an unsatisfactory feeling."

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

Where do you draw inspiration from?

Nature inspires me the most. There are so many beautiful creatures and plants in absolutely fantastic colors and structures - for example, the Rose Chafer. For the Peace Silk Scarves [collection] I was inspired by images I took of flowers with my Canon Cam, and changed the colours and layers. But also my materials inspire me - working with things such as the genuine wood material, which is easy to work with, and the slate stone.

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

What is LUCKYNELLY's vision towards a sustainable future?

The vision of LUCKYNELLY is that people buy more carefully, thinking of where the clothes come from and if an animal or human had to die or suffer to create it, and truly act upon it. LUCKYNELLY also aims to demonstrate that vegan alternatives to animal leather are luxurious, fashionable, and fair-trade.

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories, 2017. 

You can buy LUCKYNELLY accessories here.

 

#SavantGiveaway: Ice from Ash Ethical Jewellery

Interview with Anneliese Hauptstein, Designer and Director of Ice from Ash

What led to your interest in crafting zero waste jewellery?

My degree in Industrial Design exposed me to the reality of our consumer culture, the devastating condition of our environment and the unfortunate division of designing from crafting. Where once a designer was a maker and an expert in their material, the methods and forms, now the focus has shifted to the market, the machine and the bottom line. I chose instead to follow my passion for the materials themselves. I did a PhD in Materials Science and started my own studio exploring and experimenting with the most interesting materials and processes I could find. I keep it small, slow and local, working with natural materials and striving to make the best design choices I can, such as using recycled packaging and branding my own boxes.

What materials are you using?

My latest love is ceramics. I have a little kiln and I have been experimenting with melting silver wire works into ceramic pieces.

I am constantly looking into new processes and materials and weighing their pro-s and cons, whether that be the sustainability of the resource, the ethics of manufacture, or the energy in transport. I use a lot of silver, because it’s strong, durable, lovely to work with and recyclable. I use some leather, usually Kangaroo, as it is local, compostable and abundant. I have also started making pieces using mushroom and kombucha leather as a vegan alternative.

"Where once a designer was a maker and an expert in their material, the methods and forms, now the focus has shifted to the market, the machine and
the bottom line."

What does the whole process look like from the idea to actual pieces taking shape? What's the most difficult aspect of the making part?

I have a collection of little notebooks with research on subjects as varied as the Kikuchi patterns of crystals to evidence of aliens in ancient decoration. I add notes and sketches as I come across information that follows the tread. There is always a focus on the materials I could use and the techniques for making, so at some point this starts to take shape in the form of designs. I never really know how a piece will turn out when I sit down, but I do a lot of planning.

I find the most difficult part is staying true to the concept and not getting distracted by other ideas as I’m making. I work with other artisans to work out techniques and I try to make a lot of the decisions about materials, chains, clasps, shapes and construction before I sit down.

Who or what inspires you the most? Do you use any symbolism?

I am inspired by the various ways people from all over the world tell stories. The written languages themselves, of course, but also pictorial illustration, such as cave paintings, carvings, patterns and especially tattoos. I have had a fascination with tattooing for long time and love finding the hidden meanings in the assembly of images. The intersection of mythology and science also fascinates me.  My newest pieces refer to the flow of matter and energy from one state to another, starting with a sound and transitioning through the 5 elements of earth, wind, fire, water and ether. To me this is the oldest story.

Why is the synergy of nature and more material human world important to you?

Something fundamental changed when humans started creating their own materials and I feel it is very important for us to take full responsibility for the consequences of those choices and educate others to do the same. We can choose to surround ourselves with objects that are functional, durable, sustainable and desirable. In that way we will look after and respect the things we purchase.

"My newest pieces refer to the flow of matter and energy from one state to another, starting with a sound and transitioning through the 5 elements of earth, wind, fire, water and ether."

What defines good quality in jewellery design?

Quality to me is about a few things. How it makes me feel, how well it works on the body and how well it is made for its purpose. To me it is about artistic expression, cultural connection and personal style.

What's the meaning of the name, 'Ice from Ash'?

It refers to a process of transformation and alchemy, transitioning from one element to another in a way that goes against what we take to be possible, as if by magic.

What are your personal tips to a more meaningful lifestyle and how to get into a habit of consuming less?

Consuming to fulfill needs is just a mindset we have been taught. To change this habit we need to find fulfillment from within instead, in our actions, relationships, environment and ideas. Consuming in itself is not evil, objects are essential, we just need to learn to be mindful when we take something and kind when we give it back.

http://icefromash.com/wp/


Ice from Ash 'Wave Pendant' Necklace GIVEAWAY:

To WIN this gorgeous hand-made jewellery piece, follow @savant_magazine AND @icefromash on Instagram and comment #SavantGiveaway under the photo above.

Ice from Ash 'Wave Pendant'

Toneware with a Sea Urchin imprint, glazed with a handmade pumice and iron oxide blend and finished with a little sterling silver spot. 
Sterling silver fittings and chain. 
Packaged in a recycled card box.
Valued at $250AUD.

 

NO/AN: Humane Artisanal Approach Towards Handbag Luxury

Finnish NO/AN by Anna Lehmusniemi is an artisanal handbag brand boasting a purposeful, well-executed approach, whereas each bag is crafted by one single artisan throughout the process. Created as a reaction to the reckless speed of fashion industry, Nordic NO/AN believes in honest, detailed design approach and thorough, transparent craftsmanship of patiently dreamed up bags from start to the finish. The collection’s trademark matte, muted colour palette, as well as sharp graphic and geometrical lines, recalling Nordic landscape and architecture, allured us immediately. One true meticulous, quality fashion staple worth having this soon approaching spring season, that's a NO/AN bag. 

NO/AN SS17. 

NO/AN SS17. 

What were the key concerns regarding the fast fashion industry that turned into values you embrace with NO/AN?

The key concern is the overconsumption of things that do not last and are not needed. If a T-shirt costs £4,99 and a pair of jeans £12,99, there is clearly something wrong. It indicates the quality is not good and the artisans haven't been decently paid for their work. Fashion productions are also often far bigger than the demand, and so much goes to waste, or is finally sold at a very low price. As a designer, I also feel that it is important to give the design process the time it needs to create a product that is resilient. When it comes to fast fashion, this route is not the objective.

NO/AN’s values are built on honesty and sustainability. I want to create bags that can last for a long time, both quality and design wise. For me it is also very important to work with ateliers and suppliers that care about their employees, who are paid fairly. 

What's the most unique thing about NO/AN we need to know now?

The most unique thing is that every bag is made by one artisan from the beginning to the end. The bags are also signed by the artisans who made them. For me this is luxury.

"As a designer, I also feel that it is important to give the design process the time it needs to create a product that is resilient. When it comes to fast fashion, this route is not the objective."

NO/AN SS17. 

NO/AN SS17. 

Is the leather and other materials you use ethically sourced? Where do they come from?

I use natural grain leather and nickel-free metal zippers in my bags. The leather is a bi-product of the meat industry, and it comes from a Portuguese tannery that prioritises environmental preservation. The zippers are made by the Swiss brand RIRI, which are partly made in Switzerland and partly in Italy. I know both suppliers well.

What's your opinion about the fashion industry turning a degree closer to transparency and honesty? What could still be done differently?

It is clearly a growing trend and I think it is great. If the brands have nothing to hide, it should not be an issue to be open about where they produce and source the materials.

Sustainability and transparency can easily sound like something boring. I think some transparent brands could focus more on the image and to create an interesting, story-telling world around their products. For example, Everlane has executed it very well.

How do your Finnish roots pair with the aesthetics of the brand? Do you feel geography has influenced your art direction in any meaningful way?

Even though I have been living abroad several years, my design style and personal taste is still very much inspired by my Finnish roots. Actually, I think that the more I stay away from Finland, the more I take inspiration from Finland and appreciate Finnish design. Finnish design is often very minimal, but still not entirely boring. These are the same characteristics I want to communicate with my bags and NO/AN's art direction.

"Sustainability and transparency can easily sound like something boring. I think some transparent brands could focus more on the image and to create an interesting, story-telling world around their products."

NO/AN SS17. 

NO/AN SS17. 

The branding of fashion will possibly always be more fast paced — we need new images for products every season, if not more frequently. It's all production, all waste. How could this advertising process be perhaps slowed down — I would bring forward more seasonless campaign images, etc? What's your take on that?

Since I do not work with fashion seasons, I also aim to have seasonless campaigns. From NO/AN’s first shooting you cannot say directly, if it is a summer or a winter collection, because it works for both. For me brands coming up with campaigns frequently is a positive thing. It creates work for photographers, stylists, make-up artist and models. If you create digital marketing content, you do not waste materials. But if you print, it is important not to print more than needed.

I think it is important to refresh the image of a brand and collection every once in a while, even though it is a slow fashion brand. A sustainable brand does not have to be boring.

Shop here:

https://noanstudio.com

Alternatives To Leather: Live Beautifully with Matt & Nat

Standing for MAT(T)ERIAL and NATURE and the synergy between the two, Matt & Nat from Montreal offers vegan alternatives to everyday leather essentials, assembled in the form of chic everyday handbags and true city dweller shoes. With their motto being 'live beautifully', Matt & Nat encourages to appreciate integrity, authenticity and inclusiveness among other core values coining the brand's DNA. Matt & Nat advocates the use of alternatives to animal-based materials, such as PVC, and have incorporated using recycled plastic bottles from 2007. Geared forward by ideologies of innovation and renewal, Matt & Nat proves you can even be socially responsible whilst wearing your favourite leather finery...

Manny Kohli, CEO of Matt & Nat, answers all our curious questions. 

MATT & NAT SS17.

MATT & NAT SS17.

What alternatives to leather does your brand offer? How long is their lifespan?

All of our vegan leather bags are made out of PVC and PU. We’re constantly trying to source the best materials on the market to ensure a long lifespan. As with any other products, the lifespan of our bags depends on the consumer’s habits. It’s quite hard to put an exact number of this. It will vary greatly between a person who throws their bag on the floor versus another who keeps it in perfect condition. We also offer handbags in canvas material and cork material.

What are the latest advances you have incorporated into production of Matt and Nat vegan leather accessories?

We’re constantly exploring ways to be more sustainable and eco-friendly. We try to incorporate environmentally responsible materials whenever we get the chance. We have committed to using linings solely composed of recycled water bottles since 2007 and we’ve recycled over three billion water bottles producing our bags.

"We have committed to using linings solely composed of recycled water bottles since 2007 and we’ve recycled over three billion water bottles producing our bags."

MATT & NAT SS17.

MATT & NAT SS17.

MATT & NAT SS17.

MATT & NAT SS17.

What are the benefits of vegan leather products and why should they be considered to replace leather entirely?

We’re a vegan company and are very proud that no animals were hurt in the production of our bags. We chose to produce vegan bags with recycled materials to show the world that you don’t have to kill animals to produce beautiful accessories. I think consumers are becoming more socially responsible and aware of how harmful the production of leather is and we’re seeing a huge shift and demand in the vegan market.

https://mattandnat.com

miDeer Felt Accessories: Timeless x Nordic x Unisex

What do industrial felt and fashion have in common? A beautiful harmony of effortless and durable design, as honoured by miDeer. Estonian slow fashion brand miDeer creates Nordic-style bags and accessories for every occasion. Their sleek designs are loved by men and women alike, serving as a seasonless and functional must-have for any urban fashion-lover. What’s it like in the world of miDeer?, we asked.  

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

miDeer Felt Accessories, 2017. / Photo: Jake Farra.

miDeer Felt Accessories, 2017. / Photo: Jake Farra.

How did the journey of miDeer begin?

miDeer stems from our goal to pay homage to Scandinavian simplicity and elegance. We make modern Nordic accessories, interior design elements and have also introduced a line for children. What first started as a hobby of designing meaningful items for personal use, quickly grew into an independent brand — a brand living its own rhythm and life. The whole process has been thrilling for us — a real dream come true! We were thrilled by the idea of curating our own designer label and sparking conversation through what we do. Aesthetics-wise, we’ve always been enchanted by the power of simplicity. The pure lines, clear contours… that’s why minimalism and functionality go hand-in-hand throughout our miDeer line. 

Photo: Jake Farra.

Photo: Jake Farra.

The term ‘sustainable’ in design can be confusing. What’s your take on sustainable design?

For us at miDeer, practical, timeless, and slow fashion is super important. With this attitude and the aesthetics, we try to promote buying less, but good quality items that will last you ages. Our minimalist style enables our customer to mix and match with a variety of other styles as well. 

How have you incorporated environmentally conscious principles into your work?

All miDeer products are hand-made in Estonia. It isn’t and will never be a mass-produced brand. We value collaborating with local artisans in our design process and embrace the tiny quirks of each single item. Secondly, we always pay attention to where our materials come from. Right now, we use excess pieces from a felt factory. This way we can reduce the amount of industrial material that ends up in the environment — by giving new life to the discarded leftovers. What makes our production unique is that we do not mass produce, but make just enough, so that we get to further reuse the materials by creating fashionable accessories. If we think about the future, then the miDeer’s shopping bags, in particular, can effectively replace plastic equivalents in a stylish manner. 

How did you come up with such interesting name, miDeer? 

We wanted to create something Nordic and minimalist, inspired by the Northern cold climate and the power of nature. To be honest, the logo came before the name. The deer’s horns are majestic, yet strong and powerful — perfect depiction of a unisex Nordic brand. Our name quite directly comes from ‘deer’. It’s something precious and unobtainable in nature, but you can grasp an equivalent feel via our products. 

Unisex looks, felt and paper meet in your design. How did you decide to go down the route of such eclectic mix?

The main source of inspiration for the brand is felt, which already speaks to both men and women. A unisex-look wasn’t our goal on it’s own, it just accidentally turned out that way — our first [laptop] bag appealed to both [men and women alike], and then it clicked for us. Nowadays minimalism and unisex design are often seen side by side. The soft texture, yet stiff form of industrial felt make our products durable and help keep their shape. We felt that unisex was written in between the lines, as felt has both feminine and masculine qualities. We like to think that miDeer wearers are free-spirited, brave, fashion-forward people, regardless their age or gender.  

"We value collaborating with local artisans in our design process and embrace the tiny quirks of each single item." 

Photo: Jake Farra.

Photo: Jake Farra.

 What can we look forward to in 2017?

This year we will definitely focus more on fashion and accessories. miDeer will be creating new designs for people who lead an active lifestyle, yet value comfort. So there are great things coming up for the active urban dweller. 

Despite being a small company, we want to become a player on the international arena. Clients in Berlin, London and Vilnius have shown keen interest, and we cannot wait to make our products more accessible all over Europe. We have a few exciting surprises in store, so stay in tuned and keep an eye on our website!

Shop here:

http://mideer.eu

KHIS Design Baths: A More Natural, Luxury Bathing Experience

Sometimes a fleeting moment of relaxation is all we need. What better way to unwind than losing the sense of time whilst soaking in an indulging hot bath? Bathing is an ancient sensory ritual – a simple way to slow down and take a break from the daily hustle. In Estonia, KHIS Design bathtubs are here to transform your bathing experience in a natural way. Their custom-made wood baths are a unique staple - a subtle statement piece to complement your cosy indoors solutions. We sat down with Frants Seer, the founder of KHIS Design Baths, and touched upon slow living from a slightly different perspective.

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

Frants Seer, founder of KHIS, 2017. 

Frants Seer, founder of KHIS, 2017. 

How did the journey of KHIS begin? Did you background direct you in any way?

One’s scholarly background is often boring. I always like to say that I have learned mountain-skiing, which is a great passion of mine. KHIS actually stems from my personal interest in woodcraft. That’s how and why I learned. I honestly became a designer overnight. I began to build myself a home and there it all began. 

How did you come to this idea of creating high-quality wooden baths?

As I mentioned, I was building my home and I really wanted such a bath in it. From that personal desire, or need, we created the first prototype. We put a lot of hard work into creating [the first bathtub], so that it made sense to me to make something bigger out of it. Despite there being other wood-bath manufacturers around the world, such technological solutions [like ours] don’t exist elsewhere. But again, we did put a lot of effort into achieving this durable product. 

"One’s scholarly background is often boring. I always like to say that I have learned mountain-skiing, which is a great passion of mine."

'Eternal KHIS' wooden bathtub.

'Eternal KHIS' wooden bathtub.

We support environmentally conscious consumption. How does KHIS follow the principles of sustainable design?

Now, I’m not 100% sure, but I believe sustainable design means that you have something that’s consumer-friendly, durable, and made out of a renewable resource. That’s what we have tried to follow as well - to create something that lasts for decades and is of the best quality. We use thermally-processed Nordic ash. In addition, the post-processing finish is natural, either with natural linen seed oil or hot waxing. .

What’s your idea of design?

Less is more. Similarly to Nordic design, the less you use to make the most practical product you can - that’s the key. Of course, my tastes have changed over time. I often worked with antique furniture, because of the environment the building or apartment is surrounded by. But now, somewhere in the back of my mind, I’m dreaming of a self-sustainable house with glass walls somewhere remote in the middle of the woods.

"Similarly to Nordic design, the less you use to make the most practical product you can  that’s the key."

Who or what is KHIS?

For us, it means the feeling you get when you come into contact with wood. When your skin touches that naturally finished wood surface - it creates a sense of warmth. Naturally, it took a while before we settled for a specific name. We were looking for something short, yet memorable. It comes from the word ‘kiss’, as you might be able to tell. Our bath models actually refer to it as well - First Khis, Eternal Khis, Natural Khis. It just felt right and it stuck with us.

Bathing is all about the sensory experience. I, for example, love to listen to relaxing music when taking a bath. If KHIS baths could play music, what would the play?

I have actually thought about this before. It has to be classical music. Like ‘Four Seasons’ by Vivaldi. That’s how I imagine it at least. 

Finally, let’s dream a little. What are your dreams for 2017?

You know, this year has kicked off well. I think we will look into expanding our sales to China and other parts of Asia. Hopefully that will work out.

http://www.khisbath.com/

Alpha Shadows: Cornucopia of Far Eastern Design in Peckham, London

The scarcity of garments of Far East origin available in the UK inspired Tom, founder of Alpha Shadows, to start catering a cornucopia of contemporary Japanese design for fellow seekers of Far Eastern impeccable excellence. In his concept store in Peckham, London, built according to his own vision, a slow-paced shopping experience awaits admirers of the finest Japanese porcelains and jeans, whereas even the odd lost wanderer is guaranteed to leave with a few new Far Eastern founds in hand… 

Photo: Alex Reyto. 

Photo: Alex Reyto. 

Tell us more about your background. 

Before the shop, I was camera crew in the film industry. I specialised in Stop Motion Animation, which involves a lot of waiting around, so between shots I started looking at ever-obscure clothing brands on indecipherable websites. 

There came a point when I just had to go to Japan — a country I'd long wanted to visit — to see these clothes in person, but also experience the culture, the food and the country.  On my first trip there, I wasn't especially thinking about starting a shop, more about filling my belly, my mind and my suitcase...

What led you to starting Alpha Shadows?

Once there, the penny started to drop. There were some great brands I was a fan of that were simply impossible to find anywhere outside of the Far East, and I couldn't understand why they weren't. I decided I didn't want to be sitting here in 2 or 3 year’s time, when such and such a brand was picked up by a UK, European or even U.S. shop and thinking, 'I should've done that!'. I was equally inspired by incredible retail environment over there; the whole experience is so well considered and executed. I came home with my mind made up about what I should be doing with my life!

Three of my big passions in life are film, clothing and cricket, and I never had the talent to be a cricketer. A big part of me misses working in stop motion and there's every chance, if I'd never made the journey to Japan I still would be, but after that first visit I knew what I really wanted to do.

How did you grow interest in Japanese fashion to begin with?

In my early teens I was really into skate brands and whilst my local town had a pretty decent skate shop, I always wanted some shoes or hoody that I knew I wouldn't see someone else wearing. This was in the late nineties/early noughties when the Internet was still in its infancy. I'd find myself on a website for a shop in the U.S. that had the thing I'd never seen anywhere else. As my sartorial 'persuasions' changed and developed, the habit of always looking further afield continued. 

At some point I got my first pair of ‘Made in Japan’ selvedge denim jeans (I'd hazard a guess that for many people, like myself, it all started with a pair of Japanese denim). There was something about the quality and attention to detail, even on something so simple in many ways, as a pair of jeans, that was just better in every way to any I'd owned before. This realisation that maybe they do everything a bit better quickly expanded beyond that pair of jeans. Obviously there is incredible clothing made all over the world, but what I found over there, as well as its scarcity, really appealed to me.

"From the fabric to the stitching to the buttons and the zips, it's about either sourcing or developing what they feel is the ideal component for that item, rather than the cheapest and quickest to produce."

Photo: Alex Reyto. 

Photo: Alex Reyto. 

What was the one most important thing you kept in mind when starting Alpha Shadows?

The most important thing at the beginning and always will be is to be different. I'm happy to admit that there's a handful of brands we stock that have a few other stockists outside of the Far East. In the grand scheme of things they're still pretty niche, but not that hard to find with a quick google search, but nonetheless, brands I'm a big fan of and wanted to have in the shop since day one. People might query how this makes us different and what I hope people see is that the majority of brands we stock are very, very tricky to find outside of their home country. When customers see the brand mix, I hope they appreciate the difference we attempt to offer vs. other retailers. The most important thing is visitors love the clothes or footwear or ceramics, but alongside that also feel like they've discovered something new and different. This is as important to me now, as it was at the start and will continue to be.

"I was equally inspired by incredible retail environment over there [in Japan]; the whole experience is so well considered and executed. I came home with my mind made up about what I should be doing with my life!"

Photo: Alex Reyto. 

Photo: Alex Reyto. 

Photo: Alex Reyto. 

Photo: Alex Reyto. 

Why is Japanese fashion so hard to get hold of in the UK?

You may be able to find a coat by a certain Japanese brand on a website in Japan, but the site is in Japanese and even if and when auto-translate works, it is unlikely the brand will ship abroad.  While there are a very small number of sites that do offer some international shipping, it has only begun to happen fairly recently.

How important is sustainability for the designers you represent?

In terms of sustainability, I can't speak for each brand directly, but what I can say is the materials used are the very core of the brands' philosophies. It's what defines their clothing and, as a by-product of this ethos, they source the best fabrics and dyes rather than the cheapest, which in turn usually carries little regard for the environment and the people that make them.

Your branding is eye-catching and unique. What influences did you consider when creating the visual identity for the web shop?

I was pretty clear about what I didn't want rather than what I did, so much of the influence came from what I thought was wrong, rather than what I thought was right. I sketched out a few ideas for the logo and left this is in the far more capable hands of a designer, who turned it into something that I liked the minute I saw it.  It had to be clean and simple, but also unique and recognisable. This 'design philosophy' and this ethos I hope remains consistent with both the website and physical store. I didn't want to be too clever — the focus is to have a site that is usable with a well-presented collection, as well as clear, simple and honest product information.

Considering the designers and brands you represent in your store, what perhaps unites them?

What unites the brands we work with is a desire to make the best product they possibly can. From the fabric to the stitching to the buttons and the zips, it's about either sourcing or developing what they feel is the ideal component for that item, rather than the cheapest and quickest to produce. Some of the products I sell couldn't be more varied; there is denim created on antique looms and hand-woven sweaters, but also jackets with heat bonded seams, made from some of the most technically advanced fabrics on the planet.  

"This this realisation that maybe they do everything a bit better quickly expanded beyond that pair of jeans."

Where do you source the brands?

It's down to a lot of research and a lot of tough decisions!  I'm always finding new designers and brands that I appreciate, but I always try to consider how they will fit in alongside the other brands we stock. I want every brand to stand out in their own way, but I don't want them to seem at odds with one another. Just because I love a particular brand, doesn't mean it's right for the shop.

Name a couple of your recent favourites.

They're all my favourites, because each in their own way are doing some brilliant things. What is of importance, though, is the fact that we support and stock some really special young designers and brands that are in my mind criminally underrepresented. So to give them a platform is something I'm particularly proud of. andWander, Meanswhile, Niuhans, and Salvy have all been around a few years and these are some of the brands I have a certain fondness for.

How have customers reacted to the physical shop vs web store?

The reaction to the physical shop has been overwhelmingly positive. I suppose because the building we are in is a little rough around the edges (it's well over a 100 years old, so hardly surprising!), people aren't really sure what to expect. When they come inside the reaction is usually something like, 'It's actually really nice in here, what an amazing space!'. That's obviously nice to hear, but more importantly, is the fact that a customer is more likely to spend thirty minutes or more in the shop, rather than three. I hope this means our customers are comfortable in the space, find it a relaxing and welcoming place to be and one in which we can have a chat about the clothes or anything else for that matter.  

You can't really transfer the 'vibe' of the physical space to the web store, so keeping things clean and simple was always the priority in this respect and our customers seem to appreciate this.  We're always looking to improve both shopping environments, but we want to do this gradually in a way that makes sense.

"What is of importance, though, is the fact that we support and stock some really special young designers and brands that are in my mind criminally underrepresented."

Photo: Alex Reyto. 

Photo: Alex Reyto. 

Who is perhaps the stereotypical customer of yours?

Our customers are as varied and interesting as the brands we stock; so to describe a stereotypical customer is almost impossible! What I can say is that our customers are united by their appreciation for good quality and interest in discovering new things. Whether it's men or women, there's no specific age, they come from all walks of life and from all over the world.

What makes the niche brands you represent popular with your audiences?

As much as a something being 'rare' or hard to find with limited quantities, what ultimately matters is the quality of the product. The fabrics, the fit and the finishing are the things that customers appreciate and admire. One of the most rewarding things for me on a personal level is for a customer to purchase an item from a brand that is new to them and for it to then become their new favourite brand.

What are your plans with Alpha Shadows going forward?

That's a bit of a secret to be honest, but I'd like the to naturally evolve and develop. I'm very conscious of the importance of keeping the number of brands limited. This isn't because I think we should only ever carry a specific amount of brands, but because I don't want any brand we do stock to get lost amongst a sea of others. A trap I'm keen to avoid is focusing on brands just because they sell well for a couple of season; I don't think that's enough to keep it interesting. 

We're very fortunate to have built up a solid base of customers who I hope appreciate this longer-term vision. 

Visit the store:

Unit C1, Bussey Building, 133 Rye Ln, London, SE15 3SN

www.alphashadows.com