Have you ever given thought to the creative process that goes into making your jewellery? When I first came across Rasma Puspure’s designs, they were astounding, to say the least. This young Latvian jewellery designer welds together an eco-conscious approach and light, effortless design, creating pieces so full of character they will spice up any wardrobe. I talked to Rasma about her journey of becoming an artist, and what it’s like to create beautiful jewellery pieces out of various lasting and recycled metals.
Words: Johanna Raudsepp
Rasma Puspure: Ethical Jewellery Designer #Savant
Photo: Arttu Karvonen
What inspired you to become a jewellery designer?
At first it was about giving it a try. I realised that my dream of becoming an architect was unreal, because I simply didn’t like to spend so much time at the computer and I’m definitely not so good with all those calculations. When it was time to apply for university, I decided to choose the metal design department at Art Academy of Latvia. It just sounded like something I could try (and because of spending 8 years at art schools, it was easy for me to get in). I imagined metal design studies as a combination of art, graphic design, and work at the bench and computer in a good balance. In the end, it was even better than I had imagined. My main goal was to create something that lasts. And jewellery often last even longer than architecture, right?
How do you communicate a sustainable approach to your design?
As I mentioned, my main goal is to make things last. And that basically correlates with sustainable design approach. I have chosen to keep it small, make all of the jewellery myself, and use as much local materials and services as possible. Over the 7 years I have been making jewellery, I've seen myself choosing the long-lasting materials and trying to ignore fashion trends, as well as threaded jewellery, fabrics and other materials that simply end up in garbage after a few times of wearing. And I take time for every piece I make, which is certainly reducing the amount of pieces, but at the same time it's increasing the quality of every item.
Rasma Puspure: To* Please 'Simplicity'
Photo: Monta Apsane
What does sustainability mean to you?
For me, it’s a combination of several aspects. As an artist, I simply have to create and I choose to create things that last. Recycling is one of the aspects, too. That’s why I love to work with silver. Most of my pieces are made from recycled silver. And that way I know, even if the owner or the heir will not like the piece anymore after some time, it will be recyclable. As a consumer, I also try to buy less lately and rather buy excellent craftsmanship and timeless design pieces for myself. It’s just that I don’t want to support fast-fashion and the damage it brings.
"I've seen myself choosing the long-lasting materials and trying to ignore fashion trends, as well as threaded jewellery, fabrics and other materials that simply end up in garbage after a few times of wearing."
Rasma Puspure: To* Please 'Wanderlust'
Photo: Monta Apsane
Where do you draw inspiration from when designing a new collection?
With every new collection, it’s a bit different, but for me it’s a never-ending process in everyday routine. Ideas just pop up and I have to make them become reality. Most of my ideas also occur as I'm working straight into material. I don’t do sketches for my projects, because I love to work straight into material, so I can be free from trying to make the piece exactly as drawn. And the result is always better this way for me. Creative freedom is the most important aspect of creating itself for me.
Rasma Puspure: To* Please 'Wanderlust'
Photo: Monta Apsane
Your To* Please collection features some outstanding textures and classic silhouettes. Tell us a bit about the creative process behind it.
To* Please is my final Masters degree collection at Art Academy of Latvia. I graduated with first five To* Please collections and now there’s two more. And a new one coming soon. Those are collections of mutually interchangeable and combinable earrings. My main focus and interest was women’s habit of collecting, as well as the desire to participate in the creation of close things. An important prerequisite for the development of these collections was researching different interests and hobbies. Thinking about a variety of topics that women are most interested in, I concluded that a large proportion of individuals are interested in, for instance, astrology, or are engaged in handicrafts. Many women are interested in the themes of spiritual growth, self-improvement and prominence of femininity. These facts prompted the making of this project, which include the maximum range of subjects and interests reflected in my interpretation.
"Many women are interested in the themes of spiritual growth, self-improvement and prominence of femininity."
Rasma Puspure: To* Please 'Utopian Land'
Photo: Monta Apsane
Rasma Puspure: To* Please 'Utopian Land'
Photo: Monta Apsane
What is your favourite part about jewellery design?
Making it! And to be able to see my designs worn.
Rasma Puspure: To* Please 'Femininity'
Photo: Monta Apsane
If you could describe your design aesthetic with one colour, what would it be and why?
I would say silver. Since it’s also included in most of the colour palettes. And there are millions of variations of it! From whitened silver to polished and oxidised... My designs are as diverse as silver can be.