Hailing from Berlin, Germany, MALINA is the sustainable womenswear label to watch. In collection 'Immortality', grotesque, avant-garde looks in natural materials, like wood, mushrooms and natural rubber tree, meet an emotional theme.
Read MoreIDUN SS17: Becoming, A Fashion Film
"It can be said every person has their true self inside them, and it is their task to become that. This process of becoming is what we sought to capture."
Read MoreIRINA DZHUS SS17: Avant-Garde Womenswear Inspired By Structural Solutions
Influenced by metaphyscis of the form, Ukrainian designer Irina Dzhus’s eponymous label DZHUS borrows inspiration from surrounding space’s structural solutions.
Read More#WeAreTesting: A Luxury Skincare Brand Making a D’DIFFERENCE
For the past few weeks, I've had the pleasure of testing out a few products by Estonian luxury skincare brand D’DIFFERENCE. Created by a doctor, this brand is made for bringing out your real beauty.
Read More
Photo: Dianerehm.org.
#Lifestyles: Tips On Minimal Consumption by Jennie Barck, Author at The Maker Journal
To me, minimalism is all about possessing only the bare essentials. It doesn’t have to be things that are aesthetically minimal, which is the reputation minimalism is getting on social media and through bloggers.
Read More#WeAreTesting Sustainable Venues: Sisu London Rooftop Retreat
Bag-laden Oxford Street shoppers can rejoice this summer, for finally a rooftop retreat has opened that doesn’t involve navigating the perfume section of John Lewis. A security man, an un-marked door and four flights of stairs are the only things lying between you and your next summer drinking hole, but is it worth the climb?
Words: Kyra Hanson @kyra_sian
Sisu London off Oxford Street.
Sisu describes itself as a 'utilitarian nature reserve' with a 'greenhouse' restaurant offering 'organic vibes' and 'Scandinavian surrounds'. After reading the press release I was all but ready to grab some binoculars and settle in for a bird watching session. However, rather than the 'smörgåsbord of leafy green plants' promised, the spider plants were dry as a bone and the poor potted plants on our table were dead beyond recognition. The shrivelled leaves flaked off in my hand as I sipped a very strong Old Fashioned from the coin-operated cocktail tap – the most expensive drinks vending machine you’ll encounter at £8 a token. So, nil pois for green fingered bar staff.
If it’s cocktails you’re after opt for the Swizzle, a fizzy mix of Appleton Estate Signature blend, pineapple juice and Velvet Falernum (a spiced-citrusy-sweet liqueur). It’s a little on the sweet side but doesn’t arrive in a jam jar, so you get more booze for your buck. There’s also a drinks selection from Camden Town Brewery. Food was perfect for a light bite but I wouldn’t recommend turning up here ravenous. Before ordering, I searched the food and drinks menu for those 'organic vibes' to no avail. The aubergine taco with chili and fried onions would have benefitted from some sauce. The cauliflower cheese arancini was tasty but titchy, at least the chicken waffle was free range.
We were informed via email “the whole menu is not entirely organic, however the food mainly uses organic ingredients, and the drinks also strive to use organic produce whenever possible.” If this is the case why not make mention of it on the menu? Surely it’s a selling point for the health conscious, eco-consumers of today?
This rooftop is surrounded by taller buildings, which hogged the sun on our visit, however the RetrEAT (design by DENLDN) was a welcome addition. More shed than greenhouse (it being constructed of wood not glass), the thick blankets, chilled playlist and use of natural materials did manage to meet the relaxed, Scandi-cool brief. Heated concrete seating was a nice surprise though not exactly ethical. And there are two tiny toilets in which no matter where you stand you will set off the hair dryer.
"More shed than greenhouse (it being constructed of wood not glass), the thick blankets, chilled playlist and use of natural materials did manage to meet the relaxed, Scandi-cool brief."
So, does Sisu get any sustainability points at all? Well, we were told the plates are biodegradable and the furniture has been upcycled by the Sisu team. This is a well-located urban hideaway, which you’d be pleased to stumble across after navigating the snap-happy tourists and queues of Primark shoppers below, just don’t turn up for the organic vibes.
Sisu serves food and drink between noon and 10pm every day, from now until late September.
#ConsciousLiving: Interview with Jennie Barck, Editor-in-Chief of The Maker Journal
Celebrating the contemporary makers of today, The Maker Journal supports slower fashion production and craftsmanship, and focuses on the skilled designers and creatives who dedicate their lives to making this change.
I had a friendly chat about conscious living and the importance of artisanal crafts with Jennie Barck, Founder of The Maker Journal, confirming that slow fashion is the new fashion model to be appreciated for years to come. This may make you rethink, too.
Jennie Barck
Who are the most important makers in the UK now?
The UK has a variety of local, emerging makers at the moment, producing their collections at their studios with a small team, or at local factories, producing textiles with fabric mills. I have been the most impressed by young, emerging designers, such as Amy Revier and Skelton John, who tell a story through their poetic and well thought out designs that are radically sustainable: naturally dyed, handmade in small batches, using local raw materials, or handwoven. It is always lovely to see designers succeeding in their niche markets this way. On the other hand, it is also inspiring to see larger, globally successful brands, such as Phoebe English, still making everything locally in England, with a focus on hand-making and resurrecting traditional craft.
The Maker Issue I
What does 'Made in England's heritage actually mean in 2017? Are we slowly starting to forget about its importance and value?
It means different things to different people, but most designers I have spoken to are very passionate about the topic. 'Made in England's heritage means using the resources we have available here, while we still have them, it means adding a layer of value to the garments, being able to control the entire manufacturing process and therefore being able to guarantee quality to a larger extent. It also means exploring traditional crafts that could lend way to new approaches to the garments we are currently wearing. All of these things tend to slip off our minds if we are not reminded about it in our daily lives, like most people working in the fashion industry are. Consumers don’t think these factors are as important when buying items that are cheap; it has become more important to keep up with the latest trends and have them easily accessible, so ‘Made in England’ has become a thing that very few care about today.
Why should artisanal approach still be appreciated in today's era of mass production and mass consumption?
I think an artisanal approach is important from the perspective of the story of the brand; it is important there are still people out there who appreciate these crafts, knowing where their products are made - from yarn to an actual garment. When a brand becomes more transparent about their entire product chain and makes it a pillar of their ethos, it adds value to the garment. People are willing to pay for it, as long as they know their garments are made with respect to local communities and workers. If there is no one employing people at mills in England, for example, their craft is going to be forgotten and there won't be anyone to resurrect it after that. It is too precious of a thing to lose, as it is such an integral part of culture in many parts of the world.
What is The Maker Journal's manifesto? What makes it stand out from other publications also appreciating unique, hand-made fashions and a slower approach to life?
The Maker Journal stands for celebrating the people who are passionate about creating our clothes. It is, first and foremost, about bringing them to the spotlight instead of the people who wear the clothes; it focuses on their processes, thoughts and lives. What makes it stand out from other publications - The Maker has an unfailing ethos that all designers we support must match our criteria of conscious fashion, as well as having a focus on smaller scale, emerging and young designers instead of big brands. The Maker hopes to bring to attention to designers who are not in the public eye as much as they deserve to be, and have more intimate conversations with them that you don’t see in most mass media.
"When you are doing something you believe in, in due course people will flock to you, if you are putting your heart and soul into it."
The Maker Journal.
What have been the most difficult moments in making The Maker Journal happen? Share a few tips on how to make dreams happen.
There are always bumps along the way when you are trying to reach a dream, and when it is something you are utterly passionate about, it can be even more devastating. Along the road, when I was doing research and saw people doing similar things, I sometimes felt like there is so much I still have to do to achieve that level of success. You will get the feeling that people are not going to find you or you have less followers than the next person. These are all things that will fall into place. The most important thing that I learned throughout the process and from my conversations with other creatives is that, when you are doing something you believe in, in due course people will flock to you, if you are putting your heart and soul into it.
How do you personally approach slow living? Are there any practices you follow on a daily basis?
Slow living has become a very important aspect of my life through working on The Maker, but it has always played a crucial part. To me the main pillars of it are only buying things that I have considered and truly need, purchasing magazines and enjoying timeless features and think-pieces, taking time off social media and reducing its usage, appreciating crafts and the process of making, doing yoga and eating well from local farmer’s markets. These are all things I will do on a daily basis, when the pace of life gets a little overwhelming, and I feel that I just need to get back in touch with myself and reconnect. Life can sweep you up and push information at you constantly, but there is a decision to be made about not letting it get to you.
"When things take longer, you automatically go into a mindset, where you appreciate a certain process; you think about the tools being used, the hours that go into it, the different skill sets, the people working on it."
The Maker Journal.
What are the key elements defining your daily routine? 3 habits you cannot live without.
I have always and will probably eat a lot of fruits; it is the cornerstone of my eating habits and a day without fruits just wouldn’t feel the same. I will have kiwis, clementines, nectarines, plums, oranges, bananas, apples, grapes. It makes me feel rejuvenated and fresh. I will try to go to the gym most days and if I do manage, after a good session of sweating, I love to take a cold shower and go into the sauna and just disconnect for 15 minutes. Another obsessive habit I (along with millions of others) have is listening to music on public transport. I like to use city bikes whenever possible, but when I’m on a bus or tube, I absolutely have to listen to my favourite tunes.
"It has become more important to keep up with the latest trends and have them easily accessible, so ‘Made in England’ has become a thing that very few care about today."
In your opinion, what are the key fields that should be slowed down concerning the making or production process?
Out of all fields, what strikes me the most on a daily basis are food and fashion, but I have recently started thinking about interior design, too. It is so frustrating to see how fast fashion has to be pumped up, and how much of it is wasted as a consequence of that. To see people participating in this cycle makes me think of how much needs to be done to make any kind of minor change. These are critical fields that are not working sustainably at the moment, but there are things being changed, for example, in France, they banned throwing away leftover food, which I think is a wonderful solution. The best solution, however, would be to change the minds of the consumers, and make them realise the detrimental outcomes of this kind of consumption, that would bring us closer to a change.
What's the worst effect of today's consumer society you have personally witnessed?
What I witness on a daily basis is our need to get things now, without appreciating all the hard work that goes into making things happen. We all want the easy, quick fix that doesn’t satisfy us for long, but gets rid of that desire in a split second. When everything is given to us as ‘same day delivery’, we fail to stop and appreciate the people who have made that happen. When things take longer, you automatically go into a mindset, where you appreciate a certain process; you think about the tools being used, the hours that go into it, the different skill sets, the people working on it. This appreciation is a key part of the success of the slow fashion movement, and it is an antidote to mass production and throwaway culture, which has affected today’s consumer society in major ways.
One must-have summer product du jour we should all desire now... Something trendy, yet ethically-made?
I’ve been looking for the perfect summer sandals and the LRNCE bobo sandals come very close to that. Handmade to order in Morocco, with influences from handcraft traditions, each pair is as unique as its maker and they are completely contemporary, too. They have a leather strip with cotton raffia ruffles, and come in different colour combinations. The brand takes influences from local tribes and the colours of Marrakech, giving them a unique twist.
Find the sandals here.
The Maker Journal:
https://www.instagram.com/themakerjournal/
What Are the Most Beneficial Ingredients in Natural Cosmetics? We Have Found 5!
To live a conscious life is not so easy when every day we must battle over routinely decisions: what type of soap to buy and what body care to choose. Natural cosmetics are the ones with ingredients ranging from fruits and oils to plants and berries — a wide range making it difficult to decide which components are the most beneficial to our skin. Today, not all natural cosmetics are handmade, like known from ancient rituals, but we are witnessing a wonderful momentum allowing us to buy sustainable products with a range of safe natural ingredients — even if they are blended in the lab — that have become a healthy alternative not only concerning our bodies, but also the environment.
Words: Alexandra Mozgovaya
Natural eco cosmetics ingredients.
We compare different eco skin products (U.S. and UK) and distinguish what main natural ingredients our daily face and body care consist of.
1. Coconut (comes in the form of oil or fruit’s juice).
Coconut oil.
Coconut oil (if you didn't use it before reading, just start) has a wide array of health benefits - skin and body care, hair care, weight loss, strengthening immunity and anti-stress effect. Coconut oil is a natural moisturising product that is effective on all types of skin, including dry skin. It can also treat different skin concerns: psoriasis, dermatitis or eczema and can be an antibacterial shield (!) for acne problems. If you didn’t know yet — coconut oil is a natural product carrying anti-aging effect: namely, creating a barrier to dust and helping to protect the skin from the sun. A great life hack — coconut oil can be used as a pure make-up remover. Just try and you won’t regret.
2. Olive oil.
Olive oil is a wonderful moisturising product. If you have a particularly oily skin (you do know that it also needs to be moisturised, right?), olive oil can help to regulate skin’s own pH balance and remove excessive oil from the face caused by cosmetics. Olive also protects our skin from free radicals. Antioxidants in olive reach deep into the skin and remove dirt and dead skin cells. Also, olive oil consist vitamins, including A and E, that help to repair cells from pollution in a big city environment. So, it is a great natural gem for everyday use.
3. Shea butter (also Karite).
Shea butter is a real skin superfood! Originating from seeds of the Shea fruit tree and being rich (similarly to olive) in vitamins A, E and F, Shea offers UV protection and produces nutrients for collagen production to prevent skin from fading, including establishing wrinkles! Skin becomes softer to touch and naturally strengthens inside.
4. Green tea.
Green tea.
Green tea gives us a number of benefits: antioxidants, which protect us from free radicals. It also stimulates skin’s micro-circulation and improves skin's tone and health (because of Methylxanthines). It also reduces action of collagenase – enzyme that damages collagen in our skin. Green tea also reduces inflammation, so it takes effect as a natural sunscreen.
5. Avocado.
Avocado.
As an ingredient, beyond all, avocado helps to protect skin from UV light. Avocado oil is rich in vitamins A, B, C and E, proteins, lecithin and potassium. It’s very beneficial to the skin and considered as super-ingredient. Avocado oil also helps heal the skin from injuries deriving from sun exposure and scars. Avocado oil, in particular, makes skin strong by triggering the production of collagen. This helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and enhance skin tone. Avocado helps to regenerate and reactivate different rejuvenating processes in the skin.
So, the best natural ingredients are everywhere around us and eco beauty brands are going strong on using them in their products. It is hard to balance everyday beauty routine having to literally DIY-invent mixtures from coconut fruits, or a bottle of olive oil at home, so it is much convenient to choose cosmetics from the line of beauty labels that have incorporated these healing ingredients into their cosmetics already, carrying a wealth of benefits and a huge positive impact on our skin's health.
There's already a varied choice of different eco brands on the market, which present us with quality and high-standard eco contents. So, investigate the labels on your beauty products, decide what fits your personal needs the best and let your healthy skin speak for itself.
Peat Hair Mask by Turbliss.
#WeAreTesting: Peat Hair Mask by Turbliss
Review by Johanna Raudsepp
Estonian natural cosmetics brand Turbliss is using the powerful properties of natural peat to enhance the beauty we've already been given. The unique chemical properties of this magic ingredient promise to cleanse and invigorate. There is a saying that the key to eternal youth is washing your face with bog water. Eager to test this out and get closer to the truth, for the past few weeks I used the Turbliss Peat Hair Mask to treat my hair.
"First impression - why did I just need to wash my hair if I’m going to put dirt on it?! But hold on, it gets better, I promise!"
It can be daunting at first, I must admit. You’re recommended to wash your hair in advance - the less greasy your hair, the more effective the mask. So, I read the instructions carefully, washed my hair, and opened the jar. It is quite literally a peat mask, so expect it to even smell like dirt! (Luckily, I’m naturally more of a country girl, so I don't mind, but some might). First impression - why did I just need to wash my hair if I’m going to put dirt on it?! But hold on, it gets better, I promise!
After keeping the mask on for about 20 minutes, I went to rinse it out. It was easy to wash out, although the small flecks of peat just wouldn’t go down my drain for the longest time (don’t worry, you just need patience). The first few tries left my hair feeling quite dry, but immaculately clean. I have had issues with skin on my scalp and the Turbliss mask got rid of that already with the first use. About a week into the testing period I realised that my hair actually stayed clean for longer. This past week I have washed my hair just once. That’s it. And it’s still not gross.
Smelling like Mother Earth and pouring piles of peat-mud in my hair might not exactly sound glamorous, but I must say I really enjoyed the peat hair mask. As someone who has struggled with hair issues, I can say that this product is a must-have. My hair feels naturally alive again. If you’re not up for using it every week, then even an occasional peat mask session is amazing for your hair (and skin, too!). And besides cleaning my hair, it taught me that patience is a virtue.
Top 5 Vegan Food Spots in Milan: From Street Food Re-Imagined to Fancy Eateries
Asking for a soya cappuccino in the centre of Milan a few years ago would cause the waitress impatiently roll their eyes at you, if you're lucky. Looking for a decent restaurant serving vegan dishes (unless you were fine with being brought a plate of bland boiled veggies) was like trying to find a unicorn. Fortunately by 2017, Milan stepped up the game and new vegan eateries keep popping up in the city. We have listed our 5 favourite ones!
Words: Katrin Kaurov
1. Flower Burger - For the Young & Vibrant Community
Flower Burger.
The first vegan gourmet burger in Italy, perfect for a quick bite if you’re nearby the bustling Corso Buenos Aires. Offering an alternative experience, Flower Burger’s mission is to show that it is possible to have a tasty, colourful meal using only vegetables, legumes and cereals for combinations.
Do not miss: Tofungu Burger made with smoked tofu and mushrooms, Cheesy Cecil Burger made with a chickpeas patty, black bun and the turtler sauce & the Cherry Bomb Burger, which is the it-girls' favourite for its bold pink colour and flavour.
Viale Vittorio Veneto 10, Milan
2. Raw Vegan Mantra - Market Restaurant & State of Mind
Raw Vegan Mantra.
The first raw vegan restaurant in Italy where nothing is cooked in order to maintain intact all the nutritional values of the ingredients used. Inspired by Californian vegan lifestyle craze and combined with Italian traditional cuisine, Raw Vegan Mantra’s food is prepared in the Raw Lab by the food designer Alberto Minio Paluello.
Not to miss: Tostado (avocado toast on raw homemade bread), cold-pressed juices, rawv (raw pumpkin ravioli in a pine nut and spinach fondue).
Via Panfilo Castaldi 21, Milan
3. V3raw - The Healthy Jump
V3Raw.
With the aim of harmonising nutrition organic functionalities and energy control, V3raw is a health cafe in the heart of Porta Venezia. Offering healthy breakfast bowls, lunch and dinner options together with V3raw sport events, it is not just a regular eatery. V3raw is a jump into a healthier more mindful life!
Do not miss: The best Macha latte in town with almond milk!
Via Spallanzani
Angolo Viale Regina Giovanna
4. Universo Vegano - Vegan Fast Food
Universo Vegano.
Universo Vegano is the first healthy vegan fast food chain in Italy, aiming to cater for people who follow a vegan lifestyle even during a busy day. With two cosy restaurants situated in Milan, it offers a quick but healthy escape from the daily bustle, the menu includes everything from vegan salads to “cheatmeals” such as seitan burgers, vegan kebabs and tiramisus.
Do not miss: Tartufu Royale (vegan mushroom burger with truffles).
Via Solferino 41, Milan and Ripa di Porta Ticinese 49, Milan
5. Radicetonda - Real Organic Food
Radicetonda.
Although everything is labeled as 'natural' or 'organic' these days, Radicetonda takes it to another level being one of the 10 restaurants in Italy to have the biologic certification ICEA with maximum score. Radicetonda offers innovative possibilities in the field of vegan cuisine, using raw ingredients and freeing the prejudices that present vegan cuisine as unattractive - choice ranges from street food to mixed dishes with pasta, cereals and vegetables.
Do not miss: Theme nights with a real Japanese chef offering organic and traditional Japanese vegan food!
Via Lazzaro Spallanzani 16, Milano