Radically Responsible Ethical Elegance from Finland: ILUUT

In Finland, radical transparency is making waves in the clothing industry. With their seasonless style and Nordic grace, as a new brand in the market, iluut aspires to make ethical design more accessible to all customers. Who would deny introducing a pinch of minimal elegance into their wardrobe? iluut is comprised of a female trio, with their feminine enigma focused on building awareness of affordable slow fashion. Having just launched their web shop in early 2017, we wanted to know more about their journey towards the brave way of entering ethical fashion industry.

iluut, ss17. 

iluut, ss17. 

Describe iluut's debut collection in 3 words. 

Timeless, traceable and affordable.

What are the attitudes circulating about sustainable fashion in Finland? 

The Finns are paying more and more attention to making sustainable purchases, especially people living in major cities today show interest in buying clothes from smaller sustainable brands. However, iluut aims to expand further in Europe, and it’s great witnessing sustainable supply increase; there is something for everyone nowadays. We also think we have a great duty of educating people and building awareness of the difference between fast and sustainable fashion. We can’t wait for the day when sustainable brands really make a breakthrough and get a bigger market share. We are working hard for that.

What are the main complications you've faced when setting up iluut? 

At the very beginning, it was very surprising how difficult it was to find high quality, sustainable woven fabrics that have been made in Europe. We wanted to find fabrics that are fully traceable; meaning they come to us directly from the farm. We truly appreciate full transparency, because we believe it could decrease fashion’s biggest ethical and environmental problems, such as use of child labour, unsecured working conditions, dangerous chemicals and industrial pollution. In summer 2016, we made a European tour and visited a family-owned Italian fabric manufacturer, Albini. We are proud to say that our customers have so far been very happy with the quality of iluut clothes. Currently we are looking for new sustainable fabric options for the dresses we are developing. 

"Our aim is to be an open and collaborative brand that brings joy and value to its end customers." 

iluut, ss17. 

iluut, ss17. 

What are the benefits of a minimal capsule wardrobe? 

Minimal style looks fresh from year to year, and it’s very easy to combine. That means you don’t need so many garments, because with less pieces you can create many different kinds of looks that last throughout the years. It cannot be a conscious choice to produce something that people won’t wear anymore in a couple of seasons, and that will turn into more waste.

Who and what were the main influencers and influences iluut took note of since its inception?

Our whole team of three ambitious women loves fashion, but thinks that making beautiful things shouldn’t harm people. Last summer, we were fortunate to meet a pioneer designer in sustainable fashion, Marina Spadafora. She has been designing for high-end Italian brands, such as Prada and Miu Miu, before deciding to become a sustainable fashion advocate and a part of the Advisory Committee of the Fashion Revolution global movement; always including a strong social and environmental focus on her work. We take inspiration from people like Marina; people who have started doing things differently to really make a change. 

How does iluut differ from many other Scandinavian brands trying to conquer the ethical fashion market? 

There are only very few fashion brands that open the whole process of each garment: where the clothes were made and who actually made them. This is something iluut focuses strongly on, and we encourage others to do the same. We have also recently started designing two Spring/Summer dresses together with our Instagram and Facebook followers. We believe people will appreciate the clothes even more, if they can contribute to the process. Our aim is to be an open and collaborative brand that brings joy and value to its end customers. 

iluut, ss17. 

iluut, ss17. 

Choosing an angle to improve social or economic conditions in Third World is widely cherished by brands to make a change in the fashion industry. What's your social mission? 

At iluut, we want to work with companies that care about their workers and are willing to invest in them more than just on an average, distant level. For example, when we were looking for an atelier, we were convinced of our choice after finding an Estonian atelier with seven seamstresses, who are paid 40% more than the average workers in the industry. We started working on iluut aside of our daily jobs, and our margins are still low because our mission is to offer affordable sustainable clothes for everyone. How to make our mission happen? We need to rise the volumes and we just took the first steps towards that by opening our web shop, iluut.com. You are warmly welcome to have a look and make sustainable purchases.

"It cannot be a conscious choice to produce something that people won’t wear anymore in a couple of seasons, and that will turn into more waste."

iluut, ss17. 

iluut, ss17. 

What's the best season to be seen in your garments?

Fashion world rotates on the basis of seasons. That’s something we’re thinking differently: surely we’ll have clothes for different times of the year, but we don’t offer seasonal collections arriving two times a year. On the flip side, fast fashion brings new clothes to the market every week, which means compromising the quality and generating a huge amount of waste - both because the garments are not durable and get thrown away, and also because of the unsold stock left in stores. To improve the cycle, our goal is to bring something new to the market only once in around a month’s time, without compromising quality or workers’ conditions. Also, making clothes with a slower approach and seeing what sells and producing according to demand, allows us to avoid producing waste. 

Shop here:

iluut.com

NO/AN: Humane Artisanal Approach Towards Handbag Luxury

Finnish NO/AN by Anna Lehmusniemi is an artisanal handbag brand boasting a purposeful, well-executed approach, whereas each bag is crafted by one single artisan throughout the process. Created as a reaction to the reckless speed of fashion industry, Nordic NO/AN believes in honest, detailed design approach and thorough, transparent craftsmanship of patiently dreamed up bags from start to the finish. The collection’s trademark matte, muted colour palette, as well as sharp graphic and geometrical lines, recalling Nordic landscape and architecture, allured us immediately. One true meticulous, quality fashion staple worth having this soon approaching spring season, that's a NO/AN bag. 

NO/AN SS17. 

NO/AN SS17. 

What were the key concerns regarding the fast fashion industry that turned into values you embrace with NO/AN?

The key concern is the overconsumption of things that do not last and are not needed. If a T-shirt costs £4,99 and a pair of jeans £12,99, there is clearly something wrong. It indicates the quality is not good and the artisans haven't been decently paid for their work. Fashion productions are also often far bigger than the demand, and so much goes to waste, or is finally sold at a very low price. As a designer, I also feel that it is important to give the design process the time it needs to create a product that is resilient. When it comes to fast fashion, this route is not the objective.

NO/AN’s values are built on honesty and sustainability. I want to create bags that can last for a long time, both quality and design wise. For me it is also very important to work with ateliers and suppliers that care about their employees, who are paid fairly. 

What's the most unique thing about NO/AN we need to know now?

The most unique thing is that every bag is made by one artisan from the beginning to the end. The bags are also signed by the artisans who made them. For me this is luxury.

"As a designer, I also feel that it is important to give the design process the time it needs to create a product that is resilient. When it comes to fast fashion, this route is not the objective."

NO/AN SS17. 

NO/AN SS17. 

Is the leather and other materials you use ethically sourced? Where do they come from?

I use natural grain leather and nickel-free metal zippers in my bags. The leather is a bi-product of the meat industry, and it comes from a Portuguese tannery that prioritises environmental preservation. The zippers are made by the Swiss brand RIRI, which are partly made in Switzerland and partly in Italy. I know both suppliers well.

What's your opinion about the fashion industry turning a degree closer to transparency and honesty? What could still be done differently?

It is clearly a growing trend and I think it is great. If the brands have nothing to hide, it should not be an issue to be open about where they produce and source the materials.

Sustainability and transparency can easily sound like something boring. I think some transparent brands could focus more on the image and to create an interesting, story-telling world around their products. For example, Everlane has executed it very well.

How do your Finnish roots pair with the aesthetics of the brand? Do you feel geography has influenced your art direction in any meaningful way?

Even though I have been living abroad several years, my design style and personal taste is still very much inspired by my Finnish roots. Actually, I think that the more I stay away from Finland, the more I take inspiration from Finland and appreciate Finnish design. Finnish design is often very minimal, but still not entirely boring. These are the same characteristics I want to communicate with my bags and NO/AN's art direction.

"Sustainability and transparency can easily sound like something boring. I think some transparent brands could focus more on the image and to create an interesting, story-telling world around their products."

NO/AN SS17. 

NO/AN SS17. 

The branding of fashion will possibly always be more fast paced — we need new images for products every season, if not more frequently. It's all production, all waste. How could this advertising process be perhaps slowed down — I would bring forward more seasonless campaign images, etc? What's your take on that?

Since I do not work with fashion seasons, I also aim to have seasonless campaigns. From NO/AN’s first shooting you cannot say directly, if it is a summer or a winter collection, because it works for both. For me brands coming up with campaigns frequently is a positive thing. It creates work for photographers, stylists, make-up artist and models. If you create digital marketing content, you do not waste materials. But if you print, it is important not to print more than needed.

I think it is important to refresh the image of a brand and collection every once in a while, even though it is a slow fashion brand. A sustainable brand does not have to be boring.

Shop here:

https://noanstudio.com

Axiology Beauty: Colorama of Vegan Lipsticks for Every Occasion

Have you ever wondered how cruelty-free are the contents of your make-up bag? I do like to believe that conscious lifestyle choices can extend to our beauty rituals - be it bathing or enhancing your radiance for a memorable night out. These natural, organic lipsticks by Axiology, with shades ranging from subtle natural nudes to queen-of-the-night black, make sure you stand out from the crowd on every occasion. Ericka Rodriguez, founder and formulator at Axiology Beauty, shared their love for beauty with us.

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

Theory by Axiology / Photo: Ed Dasso. 

Theory by Axiology / Photo: Ed Dasso. 

What inspired the launch of Axiology?

Axiology was inspired by our dedication to a cruelty-free lifestyle. I have been vegan for many years and during the time of Axiology's beginning, I was delving more into understanding animal testing and animal derived ingredients in our home and personal care products. After lots of research, I vowed to only purchase make-up products that were dedicated in their stance on being cruelty-free. Unfortunately, at the time, I felt a lot of brands fell short. I didn't like the feel of the lipstick and didn't think any of the brands were marketed for me. I wanted something vegan, high performing and cool. I thought it would be fun to try to make my own lipstick (if you can't tell, this has always been my favourite make-up product) and would formulate before and after work 5 days a week. Eventually, I found a recipe I loved and had to bring it to the market.

"My boyfriend and I lived along rice paddies and had a view of a volcano from our studio."

Ericka Rodriguez, founder of Axiology. 

Ericka Rodriguez, founder of Axiology. 

Axiology is aligned with the values of sustainability. What is your take on sustainable beauty? Where could it evolve in the near future?

Sustainable beauty is here to stay. Ingredients are key to keeping our bodies healthily sustained and I think consumers are demanding this more than ever.

What are Axiology’s characteristics?

Axiology is intentional in her actions, intelligent in her worldview, and compassionate above all.

What has been your most memorable experience on the journey of creating Axiology lipsticks?

The most memorable experience is journeying to Bali, Indonesia, to study ingredients and it is also the place that led me to the women who hand-recycle and hand make our boxes. Bali is wonderful and my boyfriend and I lived along rice paddies and had a view of a volcano from our studio. I was also able to work alongside many other entrepreneurs, which has been crucial to my success. They all really pushed me and gave me valuable advice that I still put into practice.

"Most crucial to me when we talk about a ‘slow’ lifestyle is just slowing down in general. I meditate every morning and that's what really aligns my day."

Noble by Axiology / Photo: Ed Dasso. 

Noble by Axiology / Photo: Ed Dasso. 

Black by Axiology / Photo: Ed Dasso. 

Black by Axiology / Photo: Ed Dasso. 

How do you understand slow living and how do you apply its principles to your day-to-day life?

I'm all for the slow lifestyle. I know that in most cases the slow lifestyle is referring to avoiding mass production and eating organically, so I usually host clothing swaps instead of going shopping and frequent farmers markets. However, most crucial to me when we talk about a ‘slow’ lifestyle is just slowing down in general. I meditate every morning and that's what really aligns my day.

Who do you look up to as your beauty inspiration?

Beauty inspiration would be Beyonce. She's the queen.

If Axiology was a flower, which one would it be?

Axiology would be a cactus flower. We see ourselves in the desert under the open sky.

Shop here:

https://axiologybeauty.com/

Noorism NYC: Remodelling Vintage Jeans Into Shades of Lavish Denim Staples

Emphasising functionality and wearer’s individuality, Noorism is a young NYC-based upcycle brand remodelling old, discarded jeans into unique, adhoc fashion items. The founder and FIT graduate Noor Zakka was fascinated by turning seemingly valueless rich shades of vintage denim leftovers into lavish luxury pieces that each have their own story to tell. We cannot wait to cocoon into Noorism label’s conscious statement denim this spring — a touch of denim never goes out of style, after all. 

Noorism SS17.

Noorism SS17.

What influences have come together in you latest SS17 collection?

I was inspired by the work of Marcel Duchamp and his 'ready mades'. The concept of taking something that is discarded and deemed valueless, and elevating it by turning it into a luxury item that is well-crafted fascinates me.  

What brought you to the idea of remodelling old denim? 

I wanted to create an ethical fashion brand and vintage denim was easy to find and relatively inexpensive to source.  It's also a very classic and universal fabric that never goes out of style and has a such a rich history. 

What makes it perhaps difficult to work with denim? What's the most interesting part?

Working with vintage denim can be challenging because each old pair of jeans is slightly different in size, colour and shape. We also have to watch out for stains and it is a labor-intensive process to take jeans apart and re-cut them into new styles.  The most interesting part is finding all the different vintage pairs and also the beautiful shades and marks that show once we take off the original pockets and undo the hems.  

"The concept of taking something that is discarded and deemed valueless, and elevating it by turning it into a luxury item that is well-crafted fascinates me." 

Noorism SS17.

Noorism SS17.

What inspires you in your creative direction?

I am inspired by traveling [I went to Italy and Puerto Rico recently], books I read [I just finished reading Just Kids by Patti Smith], living in Brooklyn, Museum exhibits and also by sustainability.  I am constantly striving to discover more things I could be doing, such as the idea of zero waste fashion, and also by creating styles that use up my own scraps.  

Describe the Noorism woman in a few lines?

The Noorism woman is independent and strong.  She cares about the environment, loves denim, loves vintage, but wants high quality pieces that are special and will last a long time in her closet.

Shop here:

www.noorism.com

 

NadiaZ: Premium Range Swiss Cosmetics Celebrating the Scarcity of Indigenous Plants 

Bienvenue to the world of NadiaZ indigenous plant based cosmetics: Swiss scientist Nadia Zuodar’s eponymous label of premium range cosmetics NadiaZ celebrates the power of active compounds of rare indigenous plants. Inspired by her agronomist Italian father, Nadia Zuodar took a liking in precious oriental scents and developed her own more natural, active formulas that helped to alleviate her skin allergies, which she suffered from early childhood. Although the basis of Nadia's research was a personal ground, for a decade, the founder was dedicated to humanitarian missions in Africa and international development across the globe that also played a big part of forming the mythical and mystical range of cosmetics sourced from rare plants. NadiaZ in 2017 is a premium range brand, a true innovator in the industry introducing all-natural, velvety scents and antiallergic, non-irritable compounds in skincare to celebrate the scarcity of indigenous plants and fight against their extinction. We talked the benefits, use and ethics of natural cosmetics with the knowledgeable founder. 

NadiaZ's Tucuma Cocoon Ultra-Soft Deo. 

NadiaZ's Tucuma Cocoon Ultra-Soft Deo. 

What informed the creation of your own ethical luxury cosmetics brand? What was your philosophy that created basis for your brand from the start?

As you could further read on my website, I was allergic to almost everything on the market and have been formulating products since childhood. Then I added the scientific and ethnological knowledge to be able to explore on plants, traditional medicinal use, neurobiology, physics and chemistry and almost 2 decades field work in various countries, at least one decade building my supply network of rare indigenous plants. So it was a necessity first, then people asked me to make it available to the public and here I am!

What are the key compounds that make your products so unique and sought-after? 

I take special care featuring vegetable oils that have seen less interest so far, as compared to essential oils promoted by aromatherapy. Vegetable oils, such as oils pressed from nuts and seeds, like Baobab, Ucuuba and Ximenia, bear unique compounds, some of them yet to be fully studied, besides showing specific mechanical properties that are important for skin protection.

The list would go on forever, so here is a description on the plants I use and the very special concept here http://nadiaz.ch/ingredients-library/

What are the particular benefits of the natural hair therapy elixir (Copaiba Ritual Hair Serum) and deodorant (Tucuma Cocoon Ultra-Soft Deo) we are testing? What is the expected treatment and who could benefit from using these products?

The Copaiba Ritual Hair Serum is designed to create a long lasting protective and natural film on the hair, particularly due to the active Copaiba Resin and thus prevents hair from splitting, improves shine and resistance of the hair fibers. Most hair products contain silicons, which simply sit at the surface and get washed off. Besides, silicons result in micro-pollutants in the environment. 

Tucuma Cocoon is the first deo that is totally safe to use, without aluminium salts or added aggressive chemicals. It is a new way to use deo, where one would carry it along and re-apply it, rather than expect 24h duration. Its formula was inspired by traditional rituals, such as henna application, as well as by my research on Amazonian plants.

All my products are for people who suffer from allergies, dry and sensitive skin and/or hair, or simply want healthy products. Unfortunately, there are very strong regulations in regards to cosmetics that prevent us to speak about their therapeutic and health benefits, or call it phytotherapy. Most of the plants I use have very special constituents unique to them. Besides, the manufacturing principles I apply and patient work (cold process, hand-made, concentrated products) ensure a superior quality. 

“My hopes may be idealistic, but we just need to get more people shift from petrochemical formulas to natural ones and that would be a good minimum step.”

How is the holistic approach represented when it comes to your range of personal care products, including perfumes?

Holistic can mean a lot of things. In the case of my brand, holisticness covers — ethical, ecological and health. It means that for each ingredient sourced, each product made and each manufacturing or business approach taken, those are integrated and held at the highest standard. This is why I have developed a model for social business (read more: http://nadiaz.ch/business-strategy-framework/), as well as the other links below the mission. In terms of health, it also means to pay attention to and take care of our number one organ, which is our skin, as well as the health of our respiratory system, which are all affected by cosmetics. This is why I make trustable products to be used all life long and do not compromise with fashionable features, such as doing scented cosmetics, or making not concentrated formulas that would mean using more harmful preservatives and texturers.

What's the best way for us customers to educate ourselves about the harmful ingredients found in beauty products and learn about the benefits of natural compounds?

As I can't list all, I think the most important is to read the ingredients of anything one buys. Then to follow the advice on very knowledgeable websites, books and eco-labels that all try to educate the public. Rita Stiens did a good book, although in French, and here is a reference website http://laveritesurlescosmetiques.com/

There is not one reference, but there are common points to many sites, books and labels. Unfortunately, when it comes to the label, there is not one reference, because some may put more accent on ethical trade, some more on ecology, others on health, whereas it is virtually impossible to have one covering it all, so people have to apply a critical judgement and learn to analyse basically their cosmetics ingredients rather than simply follow a label.  

However, what ingredients should we definitely avoid in our personal care products? 

Most importantly, people should keep away from petrochemical based products and highly scented cosmetics (VOC). Then they should favour products that are oil-based and do not need preservatives, such as water-based products. Avoid silicone formulas, nanomolecules, not only for the health but also because many of these products are micro-pollutants for the environment, which we do not really know how to treat (the current waste water treatment plants are facing growing difficulties in dealing with the complexity of micro-pollutants and their interactions in the environment). 

Nadia Zuodar’s tips for choosing cosmetics & skincare products:

1. Choose natural over petrochemical cosmetics

2. Prefer unrefined oils to keep the properties. Avoid hydrogenitaded oils — this is a process to make oils buttery, like the way you do margarine. Unfortunately, it requires a lot of processing, bleaching, refining and then more industrial pollution. They do that in order to give a heavier texture cheaply, rather than add plants butter that are naturally heavy.

3. Essential oils are good, but not for every day — they have precious components but also allergens. Prefer vegetable oils for everyday use. There are so many plants so far not yet well known or valorised, like the ones you find in my web: Ucuuba, Mafura, Ximenia. Diversity is important, in order not to over-use resources. So people may refrain to have one ‘miracle’ ingredient, that is how marketing is made, but the result is that you have a high demand, when in fashion, and a drop when a new fashion comes. Behind those plants are full communities that require years of patient work to grow or harvest them and when demand drops, it may result in trees destroyed and replaced. On the other hand, when demand is too high, it results in the trees getting wiped out, such as Mysore sandalwood or Argan. So, like for food, people should valorise healthy diet with diversified food, the same with the plants in their cosmetics. 

4. The more simple a cosmetic formula, the more effective it is. There is no reason to put 100 ingredients in cosmetics (I put more into my perfumes, but that is different in application). You want to have a good concentration of your plants, not a symbolic value for marketing. And to avoid all additions that are there for texture, hiding scents, colouring or the like. So, when you can read and see that the ingredients are simple and botanical, it is best.

5. Adapt your expectations, feel your cosmetics for a long period of time. A good cosmetic is the one that will embellish and make your skin feel more comfortable day after day and the longer time you use it. Avoid comparing products based on one application, some products may seem magical at first, but have no long-term effect and quite the opposite — only superficial effect. So give at least 2 weeks for your plant cosmetic to perform. 

6. Not all botanicals are the same. Some oils are cheaper than others. Cosmetics made with sunflower oil, rice oil, coconut oil are good, but don't put them in the same basket with the ones using more valuable indigenous plants. Few products use those oils, because it make the formulation more expensive and because it is difficult to supply. If you take pomegranate oil, have a look at the tiny seed and imagine how much harder it is to get oil from this extraordinary fruit, rather than from coco. Remember that not all natural oils have the same value.

Shop here:

http://nadiaz.ch

 

Alternatives To Leather: Live Beautifully with Matt & Nat

Standing for MAT(T)ERIAL and NATURE and the synergy between the two, Matt & Nat from Montreal offers vegan alternatives to everyday leather essentials, assembled in the form of chic everyday handbags and true city dweller shoes. With their motto being 'live beautifully', Matt & Nat encourages to appreciate integrity, authenticity and inclusiveness among other core values coining the brand's DNA. Matt & Nat advocates the use of alternatives to animal-based materials, such as PVC, and have incorporated using recycled plastic bottles from 2007. Geared forward by ideologies of innovation and renewal, Matt & Nat proves you can even be socially responsible whilst wearing your favourite leather finery...

Manny Kohli, CEO of Matt & Nat, answers all our curious questions. 

MATT & NAT SS17.

MATT & NAT SS17.

What alternatives to leather does your brand offer? How long is their lifespan?

All of our vegan leather bags are made out of PVC and PU. We’re constantly trying to source the best materials on the market to ensure a long lifespan. As with any other products, the lifespan of our bags depends on the consumer’s habits. It’s quite hard to put an exact number of this. It will vary greatly between a person who throws their bag on the floor versus another who keeps it in perfect condition. We also offer handbags in canvas material and cork material.

What are the latest advances you have incorporated into production of Matt and Nat vegan leather accessories?

We’re constantly exploring ways to be more sustainable and eco-friendly. We try to incorporate environmentally responsible materials whenever we get the chance. We have committed to using linings solely composed of recycled water bottles since 2007 and we’ve recycled over three billion water bottles producing our bags.

"We have committed to using linings solely composed of recycled water bottles since 2007 and we’ve recycled over three billion water bottles producing our bags."

MATT & NAT SS17.

MATT & NAT SS17.

MATT & NAT SS17.

MATT & NAT SS17.

What are the benefits of vegan leather products and why should they be considered to replace leather entirely?

We’re a vegan company and are very proud that no animals were hurt in the production of our bags. We chose to produce vegan bags with recycled materials to show the world that you don’t have to kill animals to produce beautiful accessories. I think consumers are becoming more socially responsible and aware of how harmful the production of leather is and we’re seeing a huge shift and demand in the vegan market.

https://mattandnat.com

Tuul Care: Natural Grooming for Men

Cosmetics for men? And all natural? It’s a combination you definitely don’t come across too often. You might even think along the lines of ’I’m a man and I don’t need face cream!’ — well, the men’s grooming brand Tuul from Estonia will change your mind. Tuul is dedicated to taking good care of men’s skin and beards with their range of natural pampering products. The founders duo, Kädi and Kaarel, shared their story with us. 

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

Kädi and Kaarel, founders of Tuul. / Photo by Tõnu Tunnel. 

Kädi and Kaarel, founders of Tuul. / Photo by Tõnu Tunnel. 

I hope you’re still not tired of this question, but what’s the origin story of Tuul?

We say Tuul (‘wind’ in Estonian) grew out of a personal necessity, but if we delve a bit deeper,  then I [Kädi] was pregnant with our little daughter. When you’re expecting, you’re much more sensitive to all kinds of scents. Kaarel had just bought a well-known brand’s perfume, and when he had sprinkled it on in the bathroom, I actually felt nauseous [inhaling the scent], and asked him why won’t he make his own perfume without any added chemicals. He was taken aback by my snappy comment, but the next morning I woke up next to a man with dark circles under his eyes. Turns out he hadn’t slept one bit, and had figured it all out — to start a grooming brand for men.

You are a brand dedicated to men’s skincare. Which essential skincare products should every man have?

Actually, we are not only focused on skincare, but also keeping one’s hair and beard in good and healthy shape. There are products every man needs, like shampoo and deodorant (coming soon), and then there are products that make you feel good and pampered, like beard oils. Every man deserves to be spoiled from time to time. 

"He was taken aback by my snappy comment, but the next morning I woke up next to a man with dark circles under his eyes. Turns out he hadn't slept one bit, and had figured it all out - to start a grooming brand for men."

Tuul men's grooming range, 2017. 

Tuul men's grooming range, 2017. 

Who is Tuul?

Tuul is someone who cares.

Developing a new brand is surely not easy. What has been your favourite adventure along way? 

Our favourite days must be the days when we are in direct contact with our customers — meeting people, receiving their feedback, finding out what their needs are. The research and development process is also very exciting with each product — finding out what the best ingredients are, how should the result smell, feel and look. We’re always excited for collaborations as well — like the travel pouch we did together with a local leather manufacturer, Vanatool. 

"Every man deserves to be spoiled from time to time." 

At Savant, we pay close attention to making environmentally conscious choices when it comes to the products we use. How is Tuul sustainable in its day-to-day life?

We’re all in for organic choices. The ingredients of our upcoming products will include biologically certified herbal extracts, and the scents will be as local as possible. The nature from our region has a lot to offer — birch, juniper, peppermint are only a few examples. We prefer glass, aluminium, and paper when it comes to packaging, whereas all are recyclable materials. 

What’s in store for Tuul Care fans in 2017?

By the end of the year, we hope to have reached the next level. The plans for 2018 are even greater. We like to think big! 

You can find Tuul at https://tuul.care/

THOREAU London: A Versatile Eco Label Striving for Collective Conscience

Established only in 2016, Thoreau is a London-based ethical label offering versatile smart wear pieces that never go out of style. Operating on the principle of ‘personal style/collective conscience’, Thoreau believes that each garment carries a meaningful story even before reaching the wearer. In addition to manufacturing responsibly in the UK, we love Thoreau for boycotting ‘the buy it, wear it, bin it’ cycle of fast fashion, and for their stunningly chic cocktail dresses, equally suitable for a late-night soirée in the city, or as a more elegant take on everyday office wear… 

THOREAU London, 2017. 

THOREAU London, 2017. 

What are your brand's key sustainability principles?

My business partner and I are vegan, so the environment and animal rights were the first non-negotiable principles for us. Second, ensuring that our garments are made by people who are treated and paid fairly was also a very high priority. Both of these principles drove our early decisions regarding reclaimed and sustainable materials and manufacturing in the UK to support local industry. 

What informed the creation of Thoreau?

Our core motto that we always come back to is "personal style/collective conscience". We believe that you don't have to sacrifice style in order to be a responsible citizen. I wanted to create modern, versatile and affordable pieces for women who love fashion, care about quality and also want the garment to have as minimal impact on the planet as possible. 

What dictated the creative direction you have chosen to go forward with? 

I have always loved the 1960's/70's fashion and am drawn to this look, but longevity and versatility were the driving factors behind the garments. I wanted to imagine the pieces in my wardrobe in five or ten years, and have the garments move through seasons and looks beautifully.

"It’s hard to ignore the fact that your garment has had a whole life before you even take it home... Who made it? Were they paid fairly? Are the dyes toxic?"

THOREAU London, 2017. 

THOREAU London, 2017. 

THOREAU London, 2017. 

THOREAU London, 2017. 

How can we all make more mindful decisions regarding the garments we choose to buy? How important is quality versus quantity for you personally?

We think it is important that people are aware of the solutions as well as the problems. Otherwise helplessness and fear take over and nothing gets solved. Educating people about the things they consume and their impact on the planet is something we feel strongly about and are keen to promote as we grow. It's important to seek out brands that actively support and promote both social and environmentally responsible practices. If the price seems like a bargain, it's probably because the people who made the garment were paid almost nothing. Rather than buying 5 extremely cheap tops that you throw away soon after, seek out one good quality top that is made of sustainable materials by people paid fairly...and you'll realise it lasts for years!

"We believe that you don't have to sacrifice style in order to be a responsible citizen." 

How do you aim to compete with the cult of fast fashion as a fairly new ethical brand?

It's definitely a challenge! We see fast fashion as a quick fix, going out and just buying without thinking about, if you really love it and what it's history is. It’s hard to ignore the fact that your garment has had a whole life before you even take it home... Who made it? Were they paid fairly? Are the dyes toxic? We hope this conversation grows along with our brand. 

 What's the 1 must-have item from your latest collection?

The Javan Dress! I have always found it difficult to find eco-friendly cocktail dresses. I wanted to create something that would be perfect for parties and prove that eco doesn't have to be boring!

Shop here:

https://www.thoreauthelabel.com