SKALL Studio SS17: Welcome To 'Monde Imaginaire'

SKALL is a conscious, value-based Danish fashion studio founded by siblings Julie and Marie Skall. Rooted in quintessentially Nordic values, SKALL is all about communicating through aesthetically clean, enduring pieces — well-fitted garments that last across seasons. Their latest SS17 collection ‘Monde Imaginaire' brings us a floating narrative of dreaming a better world for ourselves, impeccably blended into dreamy colours of pink and silent sky blue. Oh, we love a collection for dreamers... 

SKALL SS17 Monde Imaginaire.

SKALL SS17 Monde Imaginaire.

What inspired you to create a sustainable brand?

We both have several years experience in the conventional fashion industry and we felt a need to create a modern fashion brand that we would feel good about. When we created Skall studio in 2013, there where not that many sustainable fashion brands around. To us, it comes naturally that we care about the entire process of garment-making, from seed to closet, and we wish to have a minimal negative impact on the surroundings, the environment, people and animals involved in the process. We truly care about the footprint that we leave behind us. With Skall studio, we contribute to creating a world we wish to see. We have something in our hearts and we communicate that story though Skall studio. 

When it comes to your team of two, how true is the saying 'team work makes the team work’ ? Who does what?

Very true! In many ways we are very much alike, like most siblings, but we have different strengths and different background in the fashion industry. We do all designing together and collectively take decisions about our collections and brand identity. Everything else is divided between the two of us, whereas Julie takes care of all sourcing, sampling and production, and Marie is responsible for all sales, marketing and PR. We find it very important to give each other space and freedom to do what they do best, but we still talk a lot all the time!

"We find it very important to give each other space and freedom to do what they do best."

SKALL SS17 Monde Imaginaire.

SKALL SS17 Monde Imaginaire.

Where do you produce and what are the main fabrics you work with?

We produce all of our woven garments in India. We work with a great factory that is FairTrade and GOTS-certified, which means that they work with very high standards when it comes to environment and social responsibility. We visit the factory at least twice a year and we have a great rapport with the factory owner and people working in the factory. Mostly, we work with GOTS-certified organic cotton and linen fabrics. We love the beauty of natural fabrics and remodelling them to the highest possible quality. 

Many Danish brands have chosen to focus on the sustainability route. What makes you clearly stand out?

Everything we do comes from our heart — creating clothes with value and purpose. Besides caring about the environment, we also have strong ethics regarding people and animals. We do not use any fur or leather from animals, we both live a vegetarian lifestyle, and that is also essential to the values of Skall studio. 

What should be the 5 basic items in every woman's wardrobe? 

A classic white cotton shirt, effortlessly chic and comfortable, made of organic cotton, of course. A warm and cosy wool sweater, locally made of wool from local sheep. A long shirt-dress, which can be dressed up with a belt and heels or casually and loosely worn with everyday sneakers. A good pair of jeans or casual cotton pants, preferably with a slightly loose fit and cropped legs. A feminine and voluminous skirt with high elastic waist and side pockets. 

What are your personal tips when it comes to styling a look, without necessarily buying new items bottom to the top?

We like classic items, which can easily be styled with a personal touch. We love scarfs, small cotton scarfs in nice colours and patterns, we wear them around our necks, around a ponytail or tied around our wrists. Layering is also a great way of creating new looks — we use a knitted sweater on top of a shirt or around the waist when wearing a dress. A shirt-dress over pants can also do the trick. We always wear our shirts with the sleeves slightly folded at the arm. 

 "It is about creating the world you wish to see and wish to live in. It might be a dream world, but that’s what we all are, dreamers."

SKALL SS17 Monde Imaginaire.

SKALL SS17 Monde Imaginaire.

Your collections have fun names, where do you draw inspiration from? What inspired you when designing the Savoy Truffle collection?

We find inspiration in everything around us, especially music and art. We love all music from the 60’s and 70’s, The Beatles, Bob Dylan, Joni Mitchel. With the Savoy Truffle collection we wanted to share our love for The Beatles — Savoy Truffle is the name of a Beatles song from their album called White. George Harrison wrote the song to tease his friend Eric Clapton, who loves chocolates – hence Savoy Truffle. It is actually a bit silly, but it is a great song and true art doesn’t have to be serious, it should be fun too. Every Skall studio collection and every piece of clothinh that we create has a story behind it; a story born from something we love.

What story will the new SS17 collection open?

Our new SS17 collection ‘Monde imaginaire’ tells a story about an imaginary world, which we have created in our minds. It is a world full of warmth and happiness, and it can be described as a feeling — a “flowing” feeling of joy and love, and we see warm colours, like pink and silent sky blue. It is about creating the world you wish to see and wish to live in. It might be a dream world, but that’s what we all are, dreamers.

"Be present everywhere you are and in everything you do. When you are present, you see what is around you and it makes you think clearly." 

SKALL SS17 Monde Imaginaire.

SKALL SS17 Monde Imaginaire.

When it comes to your practices of sustainable lifestyle, what are the first steps we should take to slow a bit down and be more mindful?

Be present everywhere you are and in everything you do. When you are present, you see what is around you and it makes you think clearly. Think about what you do and especially what you consume. We all have a huge power when it comes to what we buy, eat, wear, support and share. No one can save the world on their own, but everyone can do small things. Just do not care strongly about what you see around you and do what you feel is right in your heart. 

http://skallstudio.com

Textile Designer Nelly Rose: Honouring Global Artisanship with a Voice

For the London-based textile designer Nelly Rose, on top of placing elements of traditional craftsmanship and up-cycling in the centre of her eccentric textile artwork, the power of collaboration is key. The main themes running through her expressive textile lines are female empowerment and creating a ‘voice’ through her conscious craftsmanship. Nelly Rose is extremely concerned about the de-valuing and vanishing of traditional techniques that should be cherished and preserved instead. Through her vibrant, empowering prints — forever, if we may.

Photo by Marilu Venditti.  

Photo by Marilu Venditti.  

What led you to sustainable approach in textile design? How unique is your approach in London vs on a wider, global scale? 

I have studied Print, Knitwear and Embellishment, and all of these have led me to make more conscious decisions about the materials I was using and where the techniques derived from. In London, my approach is very much inspired by the concept of 'upcycling' and DIY-culture. On a global scale, my work is lead by my curiosity and passion for handcrafts and discovering their origin; nothing excites me more than being able to include them in my collections. I am currently exploring Japan, absorbing the culture and discovering all kinds of beautiful craftsmanship [from the region].

What are the values your brand encompasses? What are the main themes you are keen to explore? 

My values as a brand lie in working on projects which focus around female empowerment and creating a voice through a creative medium. I have worked in various projects from ‘shop window stitch-ins’, raising awareness about the Rana Plaza factory collapse, to the first modest wear runway collection in the UK made entirely in artisan houses in Indonesia.  

I tend to use a lot of typography in my work, which I guess contributes to the idea of raising a ‘voice’. Overall, the main themes I explore in my work are: Handcraft, Messages and Storylines, Protest and Equality, Printed Textiles, Creative Campaigns.  

"The brand I strive to create is my expressive vision of what I consider to be ethical in my own way, whilst still being loud, bold and a little eccentric." 

Photo by Marilu Venditti.  

Photo by Marilu Venditti.  

How does Nelly Rose as a person and as a brand differ, if at all?  

Interesting question! I would say my personality as Nelly Rose mainly focuses on networking and bringing people together, who have similar mindsets about changing the world in creative ways. I guess Nelly Rose is my rainbow vision, my compassion and my voice.  The brand I strive to create is my expressive vision of what I consider to be ethical in my own way, whilst still being loud, bold and a little eccentric.  

Your work was recently showcased at the Green Fashion Week in Milan. What does the experience mean to you? 

Green Fashion Week was a brilliant experience as it fused together my interest in global climate change, as well as having fashion at the forefront.  The new collection I showed was of hand painted up-cycled garments, ranging from denim to leather, which I salvaged from a textile waste plant.  My highlight of the experience was the photo shoot I directed at the Bosco Verticale alongside designer Silvia Giovanardi. It fused the relationship between sustainable fashion and architecture, and it was very inspiring to witness my work being a part of that. 

Although I love the ‘calendar’ fashion weeks, I also have to express my love and connection to other global fashion events such as AFWL (Africa Fashion Week London) and the recently participated in GFW. I find that there is an open dialogue and a more personal level of fashion presented.  

"I tend to use a lot of typography in my work, which I guess contributes to the idea of raising a ‘voice’."

Photo by Marilu Venditti.  

Photo by Marilu Venditti.  

What are the most meaningful collaborations you have done so far? What do you consider perhaps your biggest accomplishment? 

I consider my biggest accomplishment to date the Co-Identity collection which has been showed at the Jakarta Fashion Week and then London Fashion week via Fashion Scout. The collection was a collaboration with Dian Pelangi and Odette Steele in which involved fully immersing myself in Indonesia as an inhabitant and creating the textiles for the full 24 Looks of Modest Womenswear. These consisted of fully hand rendered techniques ranging from hand painted gowns, Batik and Songket weaving.  

Making of: Nelly Rose Artisanal Textiles. 

Making of: Nelly Rose Artisanal Textiles. 

What irritates you about the fast fashion industry? Why do we need a slower approach? 

The fast fashion industry irritates me mainly because of mass consumption and the de-valuing and plagiarising of traditional techniques.  I believe in a slower approach to prevent the de-humanisation of garment workers in the supply chain, thus preventing the capitalisation of poverty.  We take such an avid interest in the ingredients that go into our body or our pharmaceuticals, so I don’t understand why we don’t have the same mindset about what we wear on our skin.  The industry deliberately makes it hard to question, and easy to ignore, so it is imperative we constantly ask #whomademyclothes.  

Do you personally feel it is more difficult to deliver work using ethical and artisanal approach? 

I believe that in order to deliver a luxury product, there should be a transparent process. In my personal work, the initial process is more difficult, as it can be more costly as a young emerging designer; however I am constantly trying to inform myself in ways I can maximise the artisanal approach. I have a vision of working with artisan communities across the world to collaborate on beautiful creative outcomes, and I will carry on finding the most efficient ways to deliver these collaborations.  

"The fast fashion industry irritates me mainly because of mass consumption and the de-valuing and plagiarising of traditional techniques." 

 Nelly Rose, credits: Laila Cohen / Imprint Magazine. 

 Nelly Rose, credits: Laila Cohen / Imprint Magazine. 

How would you categorise yourself in the fashion world? What's the most important message you aim to deliver as an artist? 

I predominantly refer to myself as a designer because I like to create wearable pieces which tell a story. However, as designer refers to the process prior to a piece being created, I also refer to myself as a creative director because I love to work with a concept in various forms, such as film and installation. Ultimately, I aim to deliver an outcome through the power of collaboration, which reflects the journey and honours the craft. 

http://www.nelly-rose.com

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Will the Allure of Frida Kahlo Ever Fade Away?

Frida Kahlo: Fashion As the Art of Being
Assouline

“Feet, what do I need them for. If I have wings to fly.”
– Frida Kahlo

If you are seeking some inspiration look no further. The latest Assouline beauty is packed full of bright and beautiful pictures of the one and only Frida Kahlo. The book is a tribute to her amazing style and character, hosting a stunning selection of images mirroring her signature style.  Pour over bright Mexican landscapes and see how her inimitable individuality has influenced so many over the years.  Frida’s free spirit has us planning outfits and adventures in equal measure.  If you’re a fan of art, fashion and a great coffee table book – this needs to be your next investment. 

Frida Kahlo: Fashion As The Art of Being

Frida Kahlo: Fashion As The Art of Being

On sale in Assouline stores or Amazon UK.

 

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