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Read MoreTucked into spray-canned corner of a Hackney Wick carpark is Grow, a venue, bar and popup restaurant which also doubles up as ‘an experiment in ethical and sustainable business’.
Words: Kyra Hanson @kyra_sian
Photography: Martin Ruffin - martinruffin.co.uk
On arrival, I ordered a bottle of the Organic Roots Bordeaux Blanc. One glass. Though I was offered a straw by the bemused barman. (Thrifty winos settling in for the night know a bottle makes more financial sense than ordering by the glass). Feeling only slightly sorry for my liver, I returned to the stage to survey my surroundings. There’s something about being by the water that is instantly relaxing and totally moreish – maybe it’s the pace of life offered by the main mode of transport; people in boats always seem to be happy and waving; people in cars always seem to be angry and swearing. At any rate, Grow’s staff and regulars are certainly of the happy and waving variety – an amicable, dressed down sort had gathered under the main space’s luminescent green hue for ‘Have Love Will Travel’, an evening of ‘60's soul, trashy rock 'n' roll, glam gems & cult pop’. Grow doesn’t have the self-important, you’re-not-cool-enough-to-be-here vibes, which sometimes emanate from Crate (further up the river) and on paper, it certainly contains all the buzz words for a green-fingered, guilt-free night out.
At resident restaurant ‘Slow Fire London’ you can chow down on shoulder of pork or leg of Spring lamb, safe in the knowledge that both pig and sheep were roaming around a field somewhere nearby before they ended up on the canal-side smoker. All dishes are available as veggie options, at lower prices, a nice touch. However, I was left waiting an hour for a lentil and kidney bean wrap with a couple of limp lettuce leaves in tow, either they were growing the lentils in a back room to order, or they’ve taken the concept of ‘slow cooking’ to a whole new level. Two plastic forks arrived with my food, suggesting they haven’t quite figured out how to make cutlery sustainable, yet. (Oops! I later discovered, it's Vegware, not plastic, so all good). But what of the drinks? Although limited, the drinks menu is pleasant enough, there are just three wine options (red, white or rose), but all are organic, as is the prosecco and cider. Coffee is fair trade. Grow’s business model is centred around ‘the sharing economy’, this means the chalked-up walls were probably doodled by a local artist, the cute terrace planting involved community gardeners and, importantly, they like to keep events free.
I even managed a self-conscious twirl beneath the spider plant-lined dancefloor and I don’t know if it was the lentils lining my stomach or the organic booze, but I certainly didn’t have the usual pounding-head-sick-bucket scenario on Saturday morning. Sort out the slow service and this could be one experiment that takes off in a big way.
Margaux and Joe, founders of The Other Naughty Piglet.
Tell us about the ethos behind The Other Naughty Piglet & Naughty Piglets...
It is a philosophy... Be merry and happy like a naughty piglet...
We love that your menu is built around seasonal ingredients. How important is sustainability to you?
Very! We like to know where the product comes from. We work with suppliers who work in an organic way. We know how the cow is treated from the time of birth to the time of death. Same for the wines, we know most of the wine makers we promote, we like to know there's a soul, an ethic and a massive respect for the environment behind.
Tell us about your favourite dishes that are on the menu at the moment...
Definitely the XO linguine with cured egg (at the Other) as it is proper intense, complex and delicious.
The Other Naughty Piglet, 2017.
What was the inspiration behind the original Naughty Piglets?
We really wanted to have our own little restaurant, we felt ready to convey our own way. We knew exactly what we wanted and how we wanted it. Naughty Piglets was born out of a lot of love and passion.
Did you have a strong relationship with food and wine growing up?
Yes! Being sat at a table was a big part of my youth and so was Joe's!
What are the most basic staples you think every home cook should have in their kitchen pantry?
A good knife and a proper dry store (pepper corns, maldon salt, amazing olive oil etc)
Natural wines are always going to throw out different fruits, styles and clarity; your list is a shrine to Natural wines, have people in London taken well to this style of wine?
Yes, definitely! Natural wine has been around for a long time now, the trend was about 5 years ago, now it is part of a culture, I think. I mean you can go to any Michelin restaurant around the globe, over half of their wine list is about natural wines, they just don't shout it as it can be quite controversial. I personally like to take a stand (whereas I did not when we first opened NP) after meeting many wine makers in the last seven years, and seeing their dedication to the terroir, their passion, their hard work, the purity of what they do, I think everyone should know more about it. People care so much about what they put in their plates, why wouldn't they care about what they have in their glass?
The Other Naughty Piglet, 2017.
Do you see fine Natural wines having longevity to match the likes of some Bordeaux and Burgundy?
Yes of course. Not all of them, but surely some. Prieure saint Christophe, Michel Grisard in Savoie, Chateau le Puy in Bordeaux and many others, If you think about it, a few decades ago, this is how they used to make wine, the idea of being a control freak in the winery is newer than natural wine...
How do Natural wines handle being open for those on the by the glass list?
Let's not forget that natural wine is "wine" essentially! Some don't last and are badly made, some are fantastically made and last once opened, in conventional or natural wine making....
The Other Naughty Piglet, 2017.
Do you have any exciting plans or events coming up that our readers might be interested in?
We are thinking of doing a collaboration with another chef for the Evening Standard food festival event in July and we will be doing wine dinners with a special wine maker each time in the next 6 months.
The Other Naughty Piglet
At The Other Palace.
12 Palace St, Westminster,
London SW1E 5JA
Words: Johanna Raudsepp
We are glad to announce that our friends and partners from Slow.ee have now opened their very first slow fashion store in Tartu, Estonia! The brand new Slow Store is located at Aparaaditehas (Apparatus Factory), which has long been a fantastic new lifestyle hub connecting sustainable design, creativity and food, enjoyed by the young and the old alike.
The open conceptual space with high windows truly emphasizes taking it slow - taking that moment to breathe and being grateful for the simple things in life. Slow features a variety of conscious fashion brands and beauty products, but when it comes to product choices, sky is the limit! They also showcase sustainable lifestyle products and tasty treats. I got to try vegan chocolate from their shop and it was a-ma-zing.
Where is Slow heading now? Store owner and sustainability activist, Helen Puistaja, tells us the aim now is to go with the flow. “We have worked extremely hard to achieve this dream of having our own Slow store. Now that it’s here, we just want to take it all in and enjoy the moment.”
“I’m actually curious to know what items and brands our clients love most,” says Helen. She is looking forward to other curious minds coming in and discovering the realm of slow life. And let me tell you - it is definitely worth checking out! One’s own eye is the king.