Studio August: Embodying Conscious Consonance

Hanna-Amanda P. G. April 4, 2017

I accidentally travelled to Paris one March weekend, only to discover that in addition to the buzz and bravura of another frivolous fashion week prevailing the city the attendance of which I (despite my rigorous attempts) failed to escape, there was an opening event of BMA (Brand Management Agency) showroom in the upbeat Le Marais district one Friday night. Further to my amusement, two dynamic Estonian brands had already been picked up by the new agency! Sustainable, yet immaculately classy Studio August, bringing together GOTS-certified fabrics and blissfully harmonious, symmetrical lines, among them. So, I sat there (with a glass of Savignon Blanc in one hand), carefully caressing and admiring these elegant Nordic designs from Studio August's new mindfully-crafted collection, communicating the very essence of 'Parisian chic'. The pieces that had travelled all the way from Nordic Estonia to our favourite fashion capital, of course. That encounter passionately fueled my genuine interest in Estonian sustainable fashion, let alone, I immediately yearned for an inspiring one-to-one with the head designer, Äli Kargoja, to keep myself on the pulse of the diligent and humble, yet rapidly evolving and incredibly sought-after Nordic sustainable fashion scene.

How did your journey of becoming a designer take shape?

This journey was a rather natural one for me, I knew for a long time what I wanted and everything I did was shaped towards this vision – creating my own line of clothes. My first experience in the industry started as a model, doing shows, showrooms, photo shoots, fittings etc. I had the opportunity to move to Paris and I didn’t hesitate even once on wanting to study there. I enrolled in Studio Bercot fashion school, and these were the most important years of me becoming a designer. My creativity bloomed incredibly during these 3 years. To this day, I am very grateful to my teachers for all their work and support. Life then took me under the talented hand of Nicolas Andreas Taralis and from there to an internship in sales team at Maison Martin Margiela. I designed my first collection for August in 2014.

What were the main cornerstones August was based on? What was the main outlook for you since its inception?

The main outlook was firstly rather selfish - to express myself creatively and do what I love. As an admirer of minimal aesthetic, I definitely saw lack of that style in my home country. That’s one of the many reasons I decided to base myself here [in Estonia] in the beginning. Another reason was lack of mindfully made sustainable clothing lines in the world in general, to this day.

Also, sustainable fashion is clearly something quite novel in the Estonian market. How did you find your way to sustainable fashion?

I find that it’s a strong value for a clothing brand, definitely something to stand out with. It's also good to have a more meaningful mission, rather than just starting another clothing label – to give people the choice to consume consciously.

Who is the woman August is meant for? Wrap it up in a sentence.

August’s customer is a confident woman, who expresses her being, choices and way of thinking/consuming also through the way she dresses. A woman who appreciates comfortable everyday classics with an edge and to whom sustainably made clothes and certified organic fabrics make a huge difference.

How did your brand find its way to be represented by BMA in Paris? What are the larger goals and opportunities being part of this project brings?

We were contacted by BMA agency about 6 months ago. It brought us a lot of useful feedback from the buyers all around the world. It will surely play its role to help August reach more customers eventually.

What are your prospects on the international marketplace? How does this idea of 'Parisian chic' tie in with your brand and collections?

As I mentioned earlier, the most important growth for me as a designer took place in Paris during my school years, so it must have injected a fair amount of Parisian chic into my designs as well.

What would you like to bring out as a highlight of your journey as a designer? What would you still like to improve?

I'd like to think I am improving every day. The highlight was the decision to stay true to what I love doing the most, to have the courage to take the beautiful challenge of creating my own line.

"It's also good to have a more meaningful mission, rather than just starting another clothing label – to give people the choice to consume consciously."

At BMA opening, many of us went like, 'Oh, this is like COS, but better'. What's your viewpoint on that comparison?

COS has beautiful designs. I like their pure Scandinavian aesthetics. But I do try to stand out with my selection of fabrics and also with the sustainable idea behind the brand.

Is there anything you'd like to see changing in the Estonian fashion system?

I hope to see changes in the behaviour of the consumers, not only in Estonia. To choose well, there has to be willingness to pay more money for quality that lasts, and avoid fast fashion chains that provide shirts for 7€. A change in consumer behaviour will force changes up on producers and, further along, the ways our clothes are created.

What are your personal tips for consuming less and being a more mindful shopper-consumer?

Listen to your conscious! Buying a T-shirt for 7€ means that someone in that production chain has suffered one way or another. In some unfortunate cases even passed away because of tragic accidents, like Rana Plaza in 2013.

Who have been your main influencers in your journey as a designer?

I can’t point out a particular person of influence. All the people dear to me have a part in it one way or another.

"A change in consumer behaviour will force changes up on producers and, further along, the ways our clothes are created."

Share a thought with us about the future of responsible fashion.

I am convinced that responsible fashion is not a passing trend, but something permanent to stay. Consumers have a growing interest not only towards the clothing, but also towards the values and identity behind the brand. It is important that conscious clothing brands put more emphasis on creating clothes that are stylish and pleasing to the eye to change the stereotype of sustainable clothing being something only for yoga lovers.

https://studio-august.com/

#WhatToWear: Tencel is Trending

Hanna-Amanda P. G. April 3, 2017

What is Tencel? Is it the same as Lyocell, and where does it come from? I will try to give you some insights into this great material – a favorite of many of us eco-fashion girls.

By Johanne Stenstrup

Jazmin Quaymor / Unsplash.com. — *Jazmin Quaymor / Unsplash.com*.

I am, first of all, very happy with how it feels on the body, how it’s both warm and cool at the same time. This is one of the great things about Tencel, but here are some more details to get you interested:

– Dries quickly
– Is gentler on the skin than cotton
– Is biodegradable because it’s derived from trees
– Is recyclable

– Is of botanic origin and produces in a closed loop system which means no water or air pollution
– Keeps colour way better than cotton

So what is Tencel?

Lyocell and Tencel are essentially the same thing, which may be nice to know when you’re shopping. The name Tencel is only allowed to use when referring to fiber that comes from the European factory Lenzing, and they are also the ones who are furthest along in their environmentally-safe production methods. Tencel is made from wood. The wood is made into a wood pulp, which is then taken through a chemical solvent that extracts the cellulose fibers from the wood's. This is chemically spun into thin fibers, which can then be used for fabrics.

It’s sort of an abstract process, but I recommend this youtube video for the nerdy ones out there.

Is it sustainable?

What makes tencel good, is two things: first is that the wood used is often from more sustainable sources, like fast-growing trees, e.g. eucalyptus. Second is the closed loop system. Lenzing, who produce the most tencel, say that they recycle 99% of all water and chemicals.

Tamara Bellis / Unsplash.com. — *Tamara Bellis / Unsplash.com*.

Is it better for the skin?

Even though some pretty heavy chemicals are used in the solvent, they are all gone before the fabric reaches your skin.

Some say that tencel has antibacterial qualities and is healthier for your skin, but I personally have no solid proof to back this statement.

What I can say, however, is that tencel does not bleed colour. Ever tried putting on a dark pair of jeans and having it colour your butt? Or your black socks get wet and your toes turn dark? Tencel keeps the colour much longer, which also adds to it’s durability as a material.

Tencel is my new favorite material, and I think it should be yours as well. It moves beautifully, it feels great on the skin and it’s much better for the environment that it’s cousins - viscose and rayon.

SUSS UK: Imagine a World Where Fashion is Fair...

Hanna-Amanda P. G. March 31, 2017

SUSS UK proudly announce a Kickstarter campaign for its upcoming pop-up concept store, promoting a sustainable lifestyle with ethical, environmentally and human friendly brands. Founded by two fashion industry veterans, SUSS UK are concerned about the irreversible damage being caused by our excessive levels of consumption. In just one year, the clothes discarded in the UK alone could fill Wembley stadium, the equivalent of 1.5 million tonnes of landfill every 365 days.

The aim of the Kickstarter is to create a state of the art concept store open throughout September, stocking brands from across the globe including womenswear, menswear, kids-wear, homeware, beauty and food and drink, whereas offering an entire lifestyle not just a fad. What makes this pop-up different, however, is what it offers an experience beyond the shop floor. A series of talks will run throughout, with industry heavyweights giving insight into their sustainable life, whilst interactive workshops will give consumers a hands-on experience.

Savant spoke with the founders duo, Emma Grace Bailey and Abigail Grainger.

What is SUSS UK in a nutshell?

SUSS UK is a start-up that aims to help change attitudes towards consumption by providing insight into the destructive nature of the fast fashion industry, inspiring people to buy better by providing access to sustainable alternatives that remain as stylish their high street counterparts. We love fashion, but we love our planet too.

How does your professional background link with establishing SUSS?

Both of us have worked in the fashion industry now for a collective 20 or so years, Abi as a designer for the high street and Emma as a journalist, and so we have first hand experience of the inner workings and the very real need for change to prolong the industry that we love.

What inspired you to take action and create your own start-up?

Combining education and access, we're not just a shop trying to sell yet another fashion trend, and instead focus heavily on creating inspiring and insightful talks and workshops with some of the industry's most forward-thinking pioneers, teaching people about the devastating effects of fast fashion that are so often hidden away. Greater knowledge allows for more informed decisions and we truly believe that people are becoming more actively engaged in how they can help make a difference, no matter how small it might be.

“Sustainability is not a trend. It is a necessary step which the fashion industry must take for the future of our planet. All consumers deserve to know exactly what they’re buying.”

What are the main prospects and values represented by you?

Raising awareness is our main driver - the more people know about the issues caused by excessive consumption, from the start of the supply chain right through to the end with how we choose to wash and dispose of our garments, the more hope we have of making a positive difference.

We value honesty, transparency and the right intentions, values we instill into everything we do.

What are the different industries you aim to connect?

We want to offer a complete sustainable and holistic lifestyle, bringing together fashion, beauty, food and drink and even personal care, showing that with the smallest of changes we can make our every day life that little bit more conscience. But it's not just about what we buy. We are also dedicated to providing people with little tips and tricks that they can adopt on a daily basis to help make a difference.

Our Sustainable September tips series last year on Instagram saw beautiful illustrations depicting simple steps, such as taking the stairs rather than the lift or only hanging one item of clothing on each hanger so you know exactly what you own. We also celebrate people's efforts with our #isusseditout social media campaign - where we encourage people to take a photo of themselves holding up our hashtag, post it to Instagram and tell us how they're working towards a more sustainable life.

What can we look forward to at the first pop-up event on April 8th? What brands will be represented?

Our first pop-up promises to provide a truly immersive offering that will enable visitors to not only support the super cool and sustainable brands we have on board in our store, but also actively participate in leading discussions about the future of the industry, the issues it causes from crop contamination to water scarcity, and hear from people that have been inspired to change their way of life in a bid to help counteract these effects.

In the store, we will showcase a carefully curated selection of stylish and forward-thinking brands from the likes of Kowtow, Ono Creations, Auria Swimwear and Kind. We want to change the way people view sustainable product by presenting it in a way that is exciting, design-led and on trend, which is why we are collaborating with a top set designer to help create a concept store that is an experience in itself.

"We are very aware of the need to take a step back - not only to gain perspective but to bring a sense of calm into the craziness."

What is your personal relationship with fashion?

Our personal connection to fashion goes right back to university days with both of us attending UAL, where we fell in love with the creativity, energy and beauty of the fashion world. Through this relationship it became clear to us that the issue of sustainability was only growing, and reactionary action wasn't coming quickly enough.

If you had to bring out your main concerns about the fast fashion industry, these would be...

We currently live as though the world is ours to own, but we are only tenants and we need to leave this planet how we would like to find it. Our fast fashion culture isn’t helping, and the secretive nature of the industry is only making it harder for consumers to realise the impact it has on our environment.

What is your personal relationship with meaningful living?

Living in London it's so difficult to disconnect and slow down - the fashion industry is fast-paced and as a result our lives are too. We are very aware of the need to take a step back - not only to gain perspective but to bring a sense of calm into the craziness.

Although sustainability is trending, why do you think there is still very little awareness about sustainable fashion? How can we make it more visible and appreciated?

It's because sustainability is trending that it's not being taken seriously by the everyday consumer. Trends are fleeting - if people don't connect with them or understand them they're ignored as another one will be along in a moment. This cannot happen with sustainability.

This isn't to say, however, that we should be condemning high street brands, but instead lets draw attention to the practices they already have in place to be more sustainable, and highlight the changes they plan to make for the future. Lets be more transparent about what they do and don't do, let's ask more questions.

At present, the consumer associates the word with design that isn't stylish, that isn't cool, that isn't desirable. This isn't true, but until the brands that combine both style and sustainability get more attention and exposure - outside of the circle they currently live in - this perception won't be easy to shift.

Fashion With a Conscience: Kickstarter Pledge Party:

Saturday, April 8th 2017

7.30pm-22.30pm @Stunt Dolly Salon, 582 Kingsland Road, Dalston Junction, E8 4AH

You can support the cause here.

Arra Textiles: Handwoven With Love and Zero Waste

Hanna-Amanda P. G. March 31, 2017

From the rugged mountains to shimmering lochs, Scotland has plenty to offer for one who seeks a balanced life. Drawing inspiration from nature, the Scottish zero-waste brand Arra produces long-lasting handwoven textiles. Their bespoke products are timeless and easy-to-wear. We spoke to Lucy MacDonald, textile designer at Arra Textiles, about how her design inspiration aligns with slow design principles.

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

How did you end up in the world of textile design?

My art teacher at school suggested I look at studying textiles after I created a dress made from recycled materials. I studied textile design at university in Scotland and Finland, specialising in weave.

What is your favourite part about designing textiles?

I enjoy seeing a design evolve from being an idea in my head to a finished product and seeing and hearing people's reactions to receiving a piece as a gift or when they first see the work.

What is it about slow living and design that you love and why?

I like a piece to have a story behind it or meaning. I like to think that a blanket will be passed down through a family and become a part of a family's history.

Besides being sustainable in your creative approach, do you follow such principles in your daily life?

I try to buy clothes that will last and are made ethically and I use locally grown and/or home grown produce.

"I like to think that a blanket will be passed down through a family and become a part of a family's history."

What has been the greatest thing you have learned along the way?

Patience! Starting a business is a slow but rewarding process! Also, people enjoy meeting the person behind the brand and like to have a story to go with a product.

You draw a lot of inspiration from the sea. How do you go about designing a new textile or print for Arra?

I take lots of photos and I make collages. I use the collages mainly for colour inspiration. I like to let the patterns develop by changing small parts of the design at a time.

If you had to describe Arra Textiles with a piece of music, this would be...

It's hard to choose just one piece of music to describe Arra Textiles, as I like to think that each collection has a different feel and mood to it. If I had to choose a genre of music then it would definitely be a symphony. Separate design influences of light, sea and the natural world are woven together like an orchestral score where colour hues, weave structures and carefully chosen yarns combine to create a harmony within the final piece.

You can purchase Arra Textiles here.

6 Ethical Fashion Bloggers To Follow This Spring

Hanna-Amanda P. G. March 30, 2017

Words: Alexandra Mozgovaya

“There is enough on earth for everybody’s need, but not for everyone’s greed.” (Gandhi)

Today’s consumer society instills into us that being considered interesting and enviable in the eyes of others can only be achieved if we buy new products: clothes, gadgets, accessories, handbags, you name it. On repeat and on repeat. Many more pairs of fancy shoes and dresses for various ensembles to promote on social media than we actually need, although we always desire plenty. But these six green fashion names prove that fashion and cautious attitude towards the world can be combined, which as a result leaves space for more meaningful activities, lifestyle inspiration and positive energy. Focusing our attention on getting rid of the importance of material things removes dependency from clothes and teaches us to appreciate something bigger than simply a wardrobe full of fancy garments.

These six bloggers, pioneering a movement that celebrates a more meaningful approach to fashion and living, are a true inspiration and role models to us, gearing forward precious change in rethinking consumerism.

1. Agnes Muljadi (artsyagnes.com)

Agnes is a ballerina, who became vegan 2 years ago and discovered the world of sustainability for herself, including what to wear and how to decorate her home. Her blog is an up-to-date resource about slow living and different collaborations with a variety of eco-brands. It’s an online journal of a daily lifestyle consisting of ballet, veganism and love for sustainability.

Agnes says:

“I love doing Ethical OOTDs (Outfit Of The Day) where I put together a head to toe look featuring all vegan, all sustainable, all cruelty-free and all fairtrade brands. I love reading messages from people who are interested in building a more sustainable closet, but they just don't know how to start. It's important for us to reach out to people, give them ideas and show them that you can still look fashionable without harming animals or the environment.”

Agnes’s advice to our readers:

"I think a good place to start is for all of us to continue to ask what is it we're voting for every time we spend money on food, fashion, furniture, or anything really. For me, I've always wanted to support brands and businesses that are making an effort to protect the people, animals and the longevity of our planet."

2. Nataly Elbaz Bjorklund (literallynataly.com)

Nataly Elbaz Bjorklund, Literallynataly.com, 2017. — *Nataly Elbaz Bjorklund, Literallynataly.com, 2017.*

Nataly is a blogger who creates awareness on sustainablity issues, introducing slow fashion and eco-lifestyle brands. She was born in Tel Aviv, raised in Bangkok, then moved to London, and now lives in Oxford. She started her sustainable lifestyle blog last spring, although it had been at the back of her mind from when she was writing her MA thesis about sustainability in the fashion industry a few years back. The moment of change came after the realization that Nataly had developed a habit of shopping as often as every week, spending money on things that she really didn't need and never used.

On the blog, Nataly focuses on raising awareness about sustainability issues and introducing slow fashion brands. She also works together with ethical brands to promote and introduce a conscious lifestyle to those who might not normally consider issues of social justice and sustainability. “I want to show people that you don’t need to compromise on a beautiful product by shopping sustainably” – Nataly says.

Nataly’s advice to our readers:

"Cherish the things that you already own. I found that once I began to live a more conscious lifestyle, I noticed so many things in my home which I had previously bought and remained brand new, unopened, and with tags still on. Try to make do with those things before you go out to purchase new ones. To me the beginning to a more sustainable life was that mental switch."

3. Joan La (www.acupofjoan.com)

The blog with the catchy name A Cup of Joan focuses on showcasing vegan fashion that is both ethical and sustainable. It also features inspiring features on personal experiences about travel and other hot eco topics: veganism, animal rights and environmental issues all covered.

Joan has started sustainable lifestyle from simple practices of change: from using less plastic to limiting water use and preventing waste. She started paying more attention to a conscious lifestyle a year and half ago, and is gearing forward at a fast pace of raising awareness among others. She learned how detrimental and harmful the effect of fashion industry is to our environment, so changing some simple habits and beliefs, like attitude to shopping as a top priority, brought along more awareness about the importance of a waste-free, sustainable life.

Joan says:

"I love collaborating with brands that promote sustainability and ethics, and I hope to continue on doing so on a much larger scale. I haven't put out major projects as of late, however there are a few in the works where I will dive more deeply into promoting an eco-lifestyle, so stay tuned!"

Joan’s advice to our readers:

"The best way to begin living more consciously every day is to start with the small stuff. Even little things day to day can have a large impact over time. Bring reusable bags to the grocery store, carry around refillable bottles, thrift more, and consume less or little to no meat."

4. Valeria Hinojosa (www.waterthruskin.com)

*Valeria Hinojosa, WaterThruSkin.com, 2017.*

Valeria has created her inspirational blog WaterThruSkin that discovers and explores a world of mindfulness, sustainability, nature-loving, adventures, and kindness. She believes that perfoming the right everyday routines can transform into great changes.

She talks about conscious shopping and shows eco-friendly travel opportunities, adventures with animals in the wild, a plant-based diet, sustainable fashion, and yoga.

Valeria found herself empty and devastating, trying to reach salary, “status”, and the VIP perks, and one day she decided to completely change succes-oriented lifestyle. Her progress as a certified yoga teacher and vegan chef, travelling and doing what she love – the little secrets of her happiness.

Valeria says:

"I fully understand that life is all about finding the right balance, making time for yourself and the things you love, and about making conscious decisions that have a positive impact on someone other than yourself. Life should be inspiring, and being an inspiration is magic!"

5. Lee Vosburgh (http://www.stylebee.ca/)

Style Bee is all about fashion: stylish decisions, simplifying and putting together classy outfits. Lee is a designer who works in Ontario, so when reading her blog you can believe in her tips and the life and wardrobe hacks she shows.

She explores personal style putting accent on timeless clothes, shares independent brands and inspires to make conscious, thought-through choices when we go shopping.

Lee says:

"I think unique style is a combination of keeping things simple, comfortable and classic. I try to focus my budget on pieces for both my closet and home that I will be able to enjoy for years to come with smatterings of fun, unique items that set a look apart."

6. Jessica English Lass (www.englishlassinla.com)

*Jessica English Lass, Englislassinla.com, 2017.*

Jessica moved to the U.S. not so long ago and she combines her sustainable lifestyle attitude with discovering a new culture and a new country. So, on English Lass in LA you can find not only fashion decisions, but also an exciting life experience tale.

As fashion lover Jessica one day decided to make more conscious steps starting to purchase differently: preferring slow garments to fast, mass-produced items. That was the start of her slow fashion lifestyle. She also writes about brands and different interesting products that promote a timeless concept.

Jessica says:

While exploring my new home I try to lead a sustainable lifestyle. Having worked in fashion for eight years I can’t deny my love for clothing.However, over the last few years, I’ve started to try to and only purchase ethically made garments and to support the buy local movement.

Being a sustainable role model is not so hard! Let's follow and make our lives better.

Everyday Ethical Luxury from Berlin: LUCKYNELLY Vegan Accessories

Hanna-Amanda P. G. March 24, 2017

One of my favourite things about ethical fashion is how it urges creators to think outside of the box and be innovative in their entire design process. LUCKYNELLY’s animal-friendly ethos focuses on bold, elevated everyday luxury accessories. Made in Berlin, yet produced in Milan, LUCKYNELLY is challenging the norm of sustainability. From bags to jewellery to silk scarves - yes, even including touches of ethical silk! - their everyday goodies are true show-stoppers. Christine Rochlitz, founder of LUCKYNELLY, shared her take on slow design accessories.

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

Your entire brand focuses deeply on ethical creation. What do you value most about sustainable design?

For me, sustainable design means a slower approach [to creating] where no mass consumption principles are implemented. I remember when I was a teenager, there was a denim store near my hometown. I loved to wear super skinny denim from Levi’s and, at this time, they were already quite expensive. I had one pair in blue and one in black. I wore them for a few years and was always so proud of my jeans.

Today, with all those big fast fashion chains, you don’t have the opportunity to ‘love’ your clothes because fashion and new trends change too fast, and it leaves you forever with an unsatisfactory feeling. Quality should really be more important than quantity. As Vivienne Westwood put it: 'Buy less, choose well, make it last.'

What's your take on slow living?

Slow living to me means that you focus more on things that are really important in life, like being happy, spending time with family and friends or pets, being outside, and spending time cooking. People are living at a fast pace every day, so they are always overwhelmed and their lives are non-stop, chaotic. I think it is time to enjoy life more and to flee of all this pressure.

"Today, with all those big fast fashion chains, you don’t have the opportunity to ‘love’ your clothes because fashion and new trends change too fast, and it leaves you forever with an unsatisfactory feeling."

Where do you draw inspiration from?

Nature inspires me the most. There are so many beautiful creatures and plants in absolutely fantastic colors and structures - for example, the Rose Chafer. For the Peace Silk Scarves [collection] I was inspired by images I took of flowers with my Canon Cam, and changed the colours and layers. But also my materials inspire me - working with things such as the genuine wood material, which is easy to work with, and the slate stone.

What is LUCKYNELLY's vision towards a sustainable future?

The vision of LUCKYNELLY is that people buy more carefully, thinking of where the clothes come from and if an animal or human had to die or suffer to create it, and truly act upon it. LUCKYNELLY also aims to demonstrate that vegan alternatives to animal leather are luxurious, fashionable, and fair-trade.

You can buy LUCKYNELLY accessories here.

#SavantGiveaway: Ice from Ash Ethical Jewellery

Hanna-Amanda P. G. March 16, 2017

Interview with Anneliese Hauptstein, Designer and Director of Ice from Ash

What led to your interest in crafting zero waste jewellery?

My degree in Industrial Design exposed me to the reality of our consumer culture, the devastating condition of our environment and the unfortunate division of designing from crafting. Where once a designer was a maker and an expert in their material, the methods and forms, now the focus has shifted to the market, the machine and the bottom line. I chose instead to follow my passion for the materials themselves. I did a PhD in Materials Science and started my own studio exploring and experimenting with the most interesting materials and processes I could find. I keep it small, slow and local, working with natural materials and striving to make the best design choices I can, such as using recycled packaging and branding my own boxes.

What materials are you using?

My latest love is ceramics. I have a little kiln and I have been experimenting with melting silver wire works into ceramic pieces.

I am constantly looking into new processes and materials and weighing their pro-s and cons, whether that be the sustainability of the resource, the ethics of manufacture, or the energy in transport. I use a lot of silver, because it’s strong, durable, lovely to work with and recyclable. I use some leather, usually Kangaroo, as it is local, compostable and abundant. I have also started making pieces using mushroom and kombucha leather as a vegan alternative.

"Where once a designer was a maker and an expert in their material, the methods and forms, now the focus has shifted to the market, the machine and
the bottom line."

What does the whole process look like from the idea to actual pieces taking shape? What's the most difficult aspect of the making part?

I have a collection of little notebooks with research on subjects as varied as the Kikuchi patterns of crystals to evidence of aliens in ancient decoration. I add notes and sketches as I come across information that follows the tread. There is always a focus on the materials I could use and the techniques for making, so at some point this starts to take shape in the form of designs. I never really know how a piece will turn out when I sit down, but I do a lot of planning.

I find the most difficult part is staying true to the concept and not getting distracted by other ideas as I’m making. I work with other artisans to work out techniques and I try to make a lot of the decisions about materials, chains, clasps, shapes and construction before I sit down.

Who or what inspires you the most? Do you use any symbolism?

I am inspired by the various ways people from all over the world tell stories. The written languages themselves, of course, but also pictorial illustration, such as cave paintings, carvings, patterns and especially tattoos. I have had a fascination with tattooing for long time and love finding the hidden meanings in the assembly of images. The intersection of mythology and science also fascinates me. My newest pieces refer to the flow of matter and energy from one state to another, starting with a sound and transitioning through the 5 elements of earth, wind, fire, water and ether. To me this is the oldest story.

Why is the synergy of nature and more material human world important to you?

Something fundamental changed when humans started creating their own materials and I feel it is very important for us to take full responsibility for the consequences of those choices and educate others to do the same. We can choose to surround ourselves with objects that are functional, durable, sustainable and desirable. In that way we will look after and respect the things we purchase.

"My newest pieces refer to the flow of matter and energy from one state to another, starting with a sound and transitioning through the 5 elements of earth, wind, fire, water and ether."

What defines good quality in jewellery design?

Quality to me is about a few things. How it makes me feel, how well it works on the body and how well it is made for its purpose. To me it is about artistic expression, cultural connection and personal style.

What's the meaning of the name, 'Ice from Ash'?

It refers to a process of transformation and alchemy, transitioning from one element to another in a way that goes against what we take to be possible, as if by magic.

What are your personal tips to a more meaningful lifestyle and how to get into a habit of consuming less?

Consuming to fulfill needs is just a mindset we have been taught. To change this habit we need to find fulfillment from within instead, in our actions, relationships, environment and ideas. Consuming in itself is not evil, objects are essential, we just need to learn to be mindful when we take something and kind when we give it back.

http://icefromash.com/wp/

Ice from Ash 'Wave Pendant' Necklace GIVEAWAY:

To WIN this gorgeous hand-made jewellery piece, follow @savant_magazine AND @icefromash on Instagram and comment #SavantGiveaway under the photo above.

Ice from Ash 'Wave Pendant'

Toneware with a Sea Urchin imprint, glazed with a handmade pumice and iron oxide blend and finished with a little sterling silver spot.
Sterling silver fittings and chain.
Packaged in a recycled card box.
Valued at $250AUD.

Aparaaditehas, Tartu: Slow Store Opens Its Doors

Hanna-Amanda P. G. March 14, 2017

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

We are glad to announce that our friends and partners from Slow.ee have now opened their very first slow fashion store in Tartu, Estonia! The brand new Slow Store is located at Aparaaditehas (Apparatus Factory), which has long been a fantastic new lifestyle hub connecting sustainable design, creativity and food, enjoyed by the young and the old alike.

The open conceptual space with high windows truly emphasizes taking it slow - taking that moment to breathe and being grateful for the simple things in life. Slow features a variety of conscious fashion brands and beauty products, but when it comes to product choices, sky is the limit! They also showcase sustainable lifestyle products and tasty treats. I got to try vegan chocolate from their shop and it was a-ma-zing.

Where is Slow heading now? Store owner and sustainability activist, Helen Puistaja, tells us the aim now is to go with the flow. “We have worked extremely hard to achieve this dream of having our own Slow store. Now that it’s here, we just want to take it all in and enjoy the moment.”

“I’m actually curious to know what items and brands our clients love most,” says Helen. She is looking forward to other curious minds coming in and discovering the realm of slow life. And let me tell you - it is definitely worth checking out! One’s own eye is the king.

Radically Responsible Ethical Elegance from Finland: ILUUT

Hanna-Amanda P. G. February 23, 2017

In Finland, radical transparency is making waves in the clothing industry. With their seasonless style and Nordic grace, as a new brand in the market, iluut aspires to make ethical design more accessible to all customers. Who would deny introducing a pinch of minimal elegance into their wardrobe? iluut is comprised of a female trio, with their feminine enigma focused on building awareness of affordable slow fashion. Having just launched their web shop in early 2017, we wanted to know more about their journey towards the brave way of entering ethical fashion industry.

Describe iluut's debut collection in 3 words.

Timeless, traceable and affordable.

What are the attitudes circulating about sustainable fashion in Finland?

The Finns are paying more and more attention to making sustainable purchases, especially people living in major cities today show interest in buying clothes from smaller sustainable brands. However, iluut aims to expand further in Europe, and it’s great witnessing sustainable supply increase; there is something for everyone nowadays. We also think we have a great duty of educating people and building awareness of the difference between fast and sustainable fashion. We can’t wait for the day when sustainable brands really make a breakthrough and get a bigger market share. We are working hard for that.

What are the main complications you've faced when setting up iluut?

At the very beginning, it was very surprising how difficult it was to find high quality, sustainable woven fabrics that have been made in Europe. We wanted to find fabrics that are fully traceable; meaning they come to us directly from the farm. We truly appreciate full transparency, because we believe it could decrease fashion’s biggest ethical and environmental problems, such as use of child labour, unsecured working conditions, dangerous chemicals and industrial pollution. In summer 2016, we made a European tour and visited a family-owned Italian fabric manufacturer, Albini. We are proud to say that our customers have so far been very happy with the quality of iluut clothes. Currently we are looking for new sustainable fabric options for the dresses we are developing.

"Our aim is to be an open and collaborative brand that brings joy and value to its end customers."

What are the benefits of a minimal capsule wardrobe?

Minimal style looks fresh from year to year, and it’s very easy to combine. That means you don’t need so many garments, because with less pieces you can create many different kinds of looks that last throughout the years. It cannot be a conscious choice to produce something that people won’t wear anymore in a couple of seasons, and that will turn into more waste.

Who and what were the main influencers and influences iluut took note of since its inception?

Our whole team of three ambitious women loves fashion, but thinks that making beautiful things shouldn’t harm people. Last summer, we were fortunate to meet a pioneer designer in sustainable fashion, Marina Spadafora. She has been designing for high-end Italian brands, such as Prada and Miu Miu, before deciding to become a sustainable fashion advocate and a part of the Advisory Committee of the Fashion Revolution global movement; always including a strong social and environmental focus on her work. We take inspiration from people like Marina; people who have started doing things differently to really make a change.

How does iluut differ from many other Scandinavian brands trying to conquer the ethical fashion market?

There are only very few fashion brands that open the whole process of each garment: where the clothes were made and who actually made them. This is something iluut focuses strongly on, and we encourage others to do the same. We have also recently started designing two Spring/Summer dresses together with our Instagram and Facebook followers. We believe people will appreciate the clothes even more, if they can contribute to the process. Our aim is to be an open and collaborative brand that brings joy and value to its end customers.

Choosing an angle to improve social or economic conditions in Third World is widely cherished by brands to make a change in the fashion industry. What's your social mission?

At iluut, we want to work with companies that care about their workers and are willing to invest in them more than just on an average, distant level. For example, when we were looking for an atelier, we were convinced of our choice after finding an Estonian atelier with seven seamstresses, who are paid 40% more than the average workers in the industry. We started working on iluut aside of our daily jobs, and our margins are still low because our mission is to offer affordable sustainable clothes for everyone. How to make our mission happen? We need to rise the volumes and we just took the first steps towards that by opening our web shop, iluut.com. You are warmly welcome to have a look and make sustainable purchases.

"It cannot be a conscious choice to produce something that people won’t wear anymore in a couple of seasons, and that will turn into more waste."

What's the best season to be seen in your garments?

Fashion world rotates on the basis of seasons. That’s something we’re thinking differently: surely we’ll have clothes for different times of the year, but we don’t offer seasonal collections arriving two times a year. On the flip side, fast fashion brings new clothes to the market every week, which means compromising the quality and generating a huge amount of waste - both because the garments are not durable and get thrown away, and also because of the unsold stock left in stores. To improve the cycle, our goal is to bring something new to the market only once in around a month’s time, without compromising quality or workers’ conditions. Also, making clothes with a slower approach and seeing what sells and producing according to demand, allows us to avoid producing waste.

Shop here:

iluut.com

KHIS Design Baths: A More Natural, Luxury Bathing Experience

Hanna-Amanda P. G. January 25, 2017

Sometimes a fleeting moment of relaxation is all we need. What better way to unwind than losing the sense of time whilst soaking in an indulging hot bath? Bathing is an ancient sensory ritual – a simple way to slow down and take a break from the daily hustle. In Estonia, KHIS Design bathtubs are here to transform your bathing experience in a natural way. Their custom-made wood baths are a unique staple - a subtle statement piece to complement your cosy indoors solutions. We sat down with Frants Seer, the founder of KHIS Design Baths, and touched upon slow living from a slightly different perspective.

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

How did the journey of KHIS begin? Did you background direct you in any way?

One’s scholarly background is often boring. I always like to say that I have learned mountain-skiing, which is a great passion of mine. KHIS actually stems from my personal interest in woodcraft. That’s how and why I learned. I honestly became a designer overnight. I began to build myself a home and there it all began.

How did you come to this idea of creating high-quality wooden baths?

As I mentioned, I was building my home and I really wanted such a bath in it. From that personal desire, or need, we created the first prototype. We put a lot of hard work into creating [the first bathtub], so that it made sense to me to make something bigger out of it. Despite there being other wood-bath manufacturers around the world, such technological solutions [like ours] don’t exist elsewhere. But again, we did put a lot of effort into achieving this durable product.

"One’s scholarly background is often boring. I always like to say that I have learned mountain-skiing, which is a great passion of mine."

We support environmentally conscious consumption. How does KHIS follow the principles of sustainable design?

Now, I’m not 100% sure, but I believe sustainable design means that you have something that’s consumer-friendly, durable, and made out of a renewable resource. That’s what we have tried to follow as well - to create something that lasts for decades and is of the best quality. We use thermally-processed Nordic ash. In addition, the post-processing finish is natural, either with natural linen seed oil or hot waxing. .

What’s your idea of design?

Less is more. Similarly to Nordic design, the less you use to make the most practical product you can - that’s the key. Of course, my tastes have changed over time. I often worked with antique furniture, because of the environment the building or apartment is surrounded by. But now, somewhere in the back of my mind, I’m dreaming of a self-sustainable house with glass walls somewhere remote in the middle of the woods.

"Similarly to Nordic design, the less you use to make the most practical product you can – that’s the key."

Who or what is KHIS?

For us, it means the feeling you get when you come into contact with wood. When your skin touches that naturally finished wood surface - it creates a sense of warmth. Naturally, it took a while before we settled for a specific name. We were looking for something short, yet memorable. It comes from the word ‘kiss’, as you might be able to tell. Our bath models actually refer to it as well - First Khis, Eternal Khis, Natural Khis. It just felt right and it stuck with us.

Bathing is all about the sensory experience. I, for example, love to listen to relaxing music when taking a bath. If KHIS baths could play music, what would the play?

I have actually thought about this before. It has to be classical music. Like ‘Four Seasons’ by Vivaldi. That’s how I imagine it at least.

Finally, let’s dream a little. What are your dreams for 2017?

You know, this year has kicked off well. I think we will look into expanding our sales to China and other parts of Asia. Hopefully that will work out.

http://www.khisbath.com/

"It's also good to have a more meaningful mission, rather than just starting another clothing label – to give people the choice to consume consciously."

"A change in consumer behaviour will force changes up on producers and, further along, the ways our clothes are created."

So what is Tencel?

Is it sustainable?

Is it better for the skin?

“Sustainability is not a trend. It is a necessary step which the fashion industry must take for the future of our planet. All consumers deserve to know exactly what they’re buying.”

"We are very aware of the need to take a step back - not only to gain perspective but to bring a sense of calm into the craziness."

"I like to think that a blanket will be passed down through a family and become a part of a family's history."

"Today, with all those big fast fashion chains, you don’t have the opportunity to ‘love’ your clothes because fashion and new trends change too fast, and it leaves you forever with an unsatisfactory feeling."

"Where once a designer was a maker and an expert in their material, the methods and forms, now the focus has shifted to the market, the machine andthe bottom line."

"My newest pieces refer to the flow of matter and energy from one state to another, starting with a sound and transitioning through the 5 elements of earth, wind, fire, water and ether."

Ice from Ash 'Wave Pendant' Necklace GIVEAWAY:

"Our aim is to be an open and collaborative brand that brings joy and value to its end customers."

"It cannot be a conscious choice to produce something that people won’t wear anymore in a couple of seasons, and that will turn into more waste."

"One’s scholarly background is often boring. I always like to say that I have learned mountain-skiing, which is a great passion of mine."

"Similarly to Nordic design, the less you use to make the most practical product you can – that’s the key."

"Where once a designer was a maker and an expert in their material, the methods and forms, now the focus has shifted to the market, the machine and
the bottom line."