NadiaZ: Premium Range Swiss Cosmetics Celebrating the Scarcity of Indigenous Plants 

Bienvenue to the world of NadiaZ indigenous plant based cosmetics: Swiss scientist Nadia Zuodar’s eponymous label of premium range cosmetics NadiaZ celebrates the power of active compounds of rare indigenous plants. Inspired by her agronomist Italian father, Nadia Zuodar took a liking in precious oriental scents and developed her own more natural, active formulas that helped to alleviate her skin allergies, which she suffered from early childhood. Although the basis of Nadia's research was a personal ground, for a decade, the founder was dedicated to humanitarian missions in Africa and international development across the globe that also played a big part of forming the mythical and mystical range of cosmetics sourced from rare plants. NadiaZ in 2017 is a premium range brand, a true innovator in the industry introducing all-natural, velvety scents and antiallergic, non-irritable compounds in skincare to celebrate the scarcity of indigenous plants and fight against their extinction. We talked the benefits, use and ethics of natural cosmetics with the knowledgeable founder. 

NadiaZ's Tucuma Cocoon Ultra-Soft Deo. 

NadiaZ's Tucuma Cocoon Ultra-Soft Deo. 

What informed the creation of your own ethical luxury cosmetics brand? What was your philosophy that created basis for your brand from the start?

As you could further read on my website, I was allergic to almost everything on the market and have been formulating products since childhood. Then I added the scientific and ethnological knowledge to be able to explore on plants, traditional medicinal use, neurobiology, physics and chemistry and almost 2 decades field work in various countries, at least one decade building my supply network of rare indigenous plants. So it was a necessity first, then people asked me to make it available to the public and here I am!

What are the key compounds that make your products so unique and sought-after? 

I take special care featuring vegetable oils that have seen less interest so far, as compared to essential oils promoted by aromatherapy. Vegetable oils, such as oils pressed from nuts and seeds, like Baobab, Ucuuba and Ximenia, bear unique compounds, some of them yet to be fully studied, besides showing specific mechanical properties that are important for skin protection.

The list would go on forever, so here is a description on the plants I use and the very special concept here http://nadiaz.ch/ingredients-library/

What are the particular benefits of the natural hair therapy elixir (Copaiba Ritual Hair Serum) and deodorant (Tucuma Cocoon Ultra-Soft Deo) we are testing? What is the expected treatment and who could benefit from using these products?

The Copaiba Ritual Hair Serum is designed to create a long lasting protective and natural film on the hair, particularly due to the active Copaiba Resin and thus prevents hair from splitting, improves shine and resistance of the hair fibers. Most hair products contain silicons, which simply sit at the surface and get washed off. Besides, silicons result in micro-pollutants in the environment. 

Tucuma Cocoon is the first deo that is totally safe to use, without aluminium salts or added aggressive chemicals. It is a new way to use deo, where one would carry it along and re-apply it, rather than expect 24h duration. Its formula was inspired by traditional rituals, such as henna application, as well as by my research on Amazonian plants.

All my products are for people who suffer from allergies, dry and sensitive skin and/or hair, or simply want healthy products. Unfortunately, there are very strong regulations in regards to cosmetics that prevent us to speak about their therapeutic and health benefits, or call it phytotherapy. Most of the plants I use have very special constituents unique to them. Besides, the manufacturing principles I apply and patient work (cold process, hand-made, concentrated products) ensure a superior quality. 

“My hopes may be idealistic, but we just need to get more people shift from petrochemical formulas to natural ones and that would be a good minimum step.”

How is the holistic approach represented when it comes to your range of personal care products, including perfumes?

Holistic can mean a lot of things. In the case of my brand, holisticness covers — ethical, ecological and health. It means that for each ingredient sourced, each product made and each manufacturing or business approach taken, those are integrated and held at the highest standard. This is why I have developed a model for social business (read more: http://nadiaz.ch/business-strategy-framework/), as well as the other links below the mission. In terms of health, it also means to pay attention to and take care of our number one organ, which is our skin, as well as the health of our respiratory system, which are all affected by cosmetics. This is why I make trustable products to be used all life long and do not compromise with fashionable features, such as doing scented cosmetics, or making not concentrated formulas that would mean using more harmful preservatives and texturers.

What's the best way for us customers to educate ourselves about the harmful ingredients found in beauty products and learn about the benefits of natural compounds?

As I can't list all, I think the most important is to read the ingredients of anything one buys. Then to follow the advice on very knowledgeable websites, books and eco-labels that all try to educate the public. Rita Stiens did a good book, although in French, and here is a reference website http://laveritesurlescosmetiques.com/

There is not one reference, but there are common points to many sites, books and labels. Unfortunately, when it comes to the label, there is not one reference, because some may put more accent on ethical trade, some more on ecology, others on health, whereas it is virtually impossible to have one covering it all, so people have to apply a critical judgement and learn to analyse basically their cosmetics ingredients rather than simply follow a label.  

However, what ingredients should we definitely avoid in our personal care products? 

Most importantly, people should keep away from petrochemical based products and highly scented cosmetics (VOC). Then they should favour products that are oil-based and do not need preservatives, such as water-based products. Avoid silicone formulas, nanomolecules, not only for the health but also because many of these products are micro-pollutants for the environment, which we do not really know how to treat (the current waste water treatment plants are facing growing difficulties in dealing with the complexity of micro-pollutants and their interactions in the environment). 

Nadia Zuodar’s tips for choosing cosmetics & skincare products:

1. Choose natural over petrochemical cosmetics

2. Prefer unrefined oils to keep the properties. Avoid hydrogenitaded oils — this is a process to make oils buttery, like the way you do margarine. Unfortunately, it requires a lot of processing, bleaching, refining and then more industrial pollution. They do that in order to give a heavier texture cheaply, rather than add plants butter that are naturally heavy.

3. Essential oils are good, but not for every day — they have precious components but also allergens. Prefer vegetable oils for everyday use. There are so many plants so far not yet well known or valorised, like the ones you find in my web: Ucuuba, Mafura, Ximenia. Diversity is important, in order not to over-use resources. So people may refrain to have one ‘miracle’ ingredient, that is how marketing is made, but the result is that you have a high demand, when in fashion, and a drop when a new fashion comes. Behind those plants are full communities that require years of patient work to grow or harvest them and when demand drops, it may result in trees destroyed and replaced. On the other hand, when demand is too high, it results in the trees getting wiped out, such as Mysore sandalwood or Argan. So, like for food, people should valorise healthy diet with diversified food, the same with the plants in their cosmetics. 

4. The more simple a cosmetic formula, the more effective it is. There is no reason to put 100 ingredients in cosmetics (I put more into my perfumes, but that is different in application). You want to have a good concentration of your plants, not a symbolic value for marketing. And to avoid all additions that are there for texture, hiding scents, colouring or the like. So, when you can read and see that the ingredients are simple and botanical, it is best.

5. Adapt your expectations, feel your cosmetics for a long period of time. A good cosmetic is the one that will embellish and make your skin feel more comfortable day after day and the longer time you use it. Avoid comparing products based on one application, some products may seem magical at first, but have no long-term effect and quite the opposite — only superficial effect. So give at least 2 weeks for your plant cosmetic to perform. 

6. Not all botanicals are the same. Some oils are cheaper than others. Cosmetics made with sunflower oil, rice oil, coconut oil are good, but don't put them in the same basket with the ones using more valuable indigenous plants. Few products use those oils, because it make the formulation more expensive and because it is difficult to supply. If you take pomegranate oil, have a look at the tiny seed and imagine how much harder it is to get oil from this extraordinary fruit, rather than from coco. Remember that not all natural oils have the same value.

Shop here:

http://nadiaz.ch

 

Tuul Care: Natural Grooming for Men

Cosmetics for men? And all natural? It’s a combination you definitely don’t come across too often. You might even think along the lines of ’I’m a man and I don’t need face cream!’ — well, the men’s grooming brand Tuul from Estonia will change your mind. Tuul is dedicated to taking good care of men’s skin and beards with their range of natural pampering products. The founders duo, Kädi and Kaarel, shared their story with us. 

Words: Johanna Raudsepp

Kädi and Kaarel, founders of Tuul. / Photo by Tõnu Tunnel. 

Kädi and Kaarel, founders of Tuul. / Photo by Tõnu Tunnel. 

I hope you’re still not tired of this question, but what’s the origin story of Tuul?

We say Tuul (‘wind’ in Estonian) grew out of a personal necessity, but if we delve a bit deeper,  then I [Kädi] was pregnant with our little daughter. When you’re expecting, you’re much more sensitive to all kinds of scents. Kaarel had just bought a well-known brand’s perfume, and when he had sprinkled it on in the bathroom, I actually felt nauseous [inhaling the scent], and asked him why won’t he make his own perfume without any added chemicals. He was taken aback by my snappy comment, but the next morning I woke up next to a man with dark circles under his eyes. Turns out he hadn’t slept one bit, and had figured it all out — to start a grooming brand for men.

You are a brand dedicated to men’s skincare. Which essential skincare products should every man have?

Actually, we are not only focused on skincare, but also keeping one’s hair and beard in good and healthy shape. There are products every man needs, like shampoo and deodorant (coming soon), and then there are products that make you feel good and pampered, like beard oils. Every man deserves to be spoiled from time to time. 

"He was taken aback by my snappy comment, but the next morning I woke up next to a man with dark circles under his eyes. Turns out he hadn't slept one bit, and had figured it all out - to start a grooming brand for men."

Tuul men's grooming range, 2017. 

Tuul men's grooming range, 2017. 

Who is Tuul?

Tuul is someone who cares.

Developing a new brand is surely not easy. What has been your favourite adventure along way? 

Our favourite days must be the days when we are in direct contact with our customers — meeting people, receiving their feedback, finding out what their needs are. The research and development process is also very exciting with each product — finding out what the best ingredients are, how should the result smell, feel and look. We’re always excited for collaborations as well — like the travel pouch we did together with a local leather manufacturer, Vanatool. 

"Every man deserves to be spoiled from time to time." 

At Savant, we pay close attention to making environmentally conscious choices when it comes to the products we use. How is Tuul sustainable in its day-to-day life?

We’re all in for organic choices. The ingredients of our upcoming products will include biologically certified herbal extracts, and the scents will be as local as possible. The nature from our region has a lot to offer — birch, juniper, peppermint are only a few examples. We prefer glass, aluminium, and paper when it comes to packaging, whereas all are recyclable materials. 

What’s in store for Tuul Care fans in 2017?

By the end of the year, we hope to have reached the next level. The plans for 2018 are even greater. We like to think big! 

You can find Tuul at https://tuul.care/

#WeAreTesting DABBA Herbal Cosmetics: Magic Nuances of Nordic Plant Extracts

Latvian brand DABBA's herbal cosmetics range led us to discover the magic of its fresh Nordic, 100% natural ingredients. DABBA uses fine, nuanced plant extracts, which are created for different moods and different events. DABBA distilled, natural floral waters and face and body oils are made entirely of certified organic plants, flowers and wild tree leaves, and are qualified to an ECOCERT standard. We went through a true sensory experience testing all this vibrant herbal bonanza 

DABBA face oils collection, 2016. 

DABBA face oils collection, 2016. 

Hanna-Amanda tested…

 1. Wild Raspberry Leaf Water — Gentle and Refreshing Toner for Mixed Skin

I’ve been a fan of refreshing, easy-to-use facial spray waters for as long as I can remember, especially due to my frequent flight hopping, which means I often feel the need to hydrate my face and freshen up the skin during the hours spent in air. Dabba’s floral waters, made of the purest spring water and fresh Nordic plants, boast hydrating effects, whilst helping to stabilise skin’s own pH level. On top of natural ingredients, I’m usually the most concerned about their actual effectiveness. Dabba’s Wild Raspberry Leaf Water promises to soothe, tone and balance the skin. It’s a nice change from the more regular rose and peppermint scented sprays available in the eco-cosmetics market. I applied this floral water every morning by spraying it 2-3 times and let it absorb for a few minutes before applying Raspberry Oil Elixir by Dabba. This product brings a calming, soothing experience and leaves the skin soft and even, without any irritation. These distilled floral waters without any chemically added fragrances also help to cleanse and prepare your skin for absorbing your next-step facial care products, such as day-creams and natural oils, whatever your preference. I liked the refreshing skincare experience and it will certainly remain one of my go-to travel must-haves.

2. Raspberry Oil Elixir - Intensive Multivitamin Serum

This intensive multivitamin serum was the perfect pairing for the cold weather we have been experiencing in the Northern Europe. At first, I was a bit scared the texture might be too oily, but it is actually quite smooth and dissolves well. The best impact I encountered was the way it evened my skin tone, whilst giving my face a baby-soft feel. It is especially handy to use in the mornings, as it helps to reduce tiredness effects immediately, and also provides a protective layer underneath make-up, guaranteeing required hydration. The droplet cap is extremely useful, as it helps to measure and apply the elixir in just right amounts, so you your face doesn’t exactly swim in oil all day long… Truly recommend this herbal elixir featuring raspberry notes for winter. The small bottle is nice to carry along, as it fits even the smallest handbag. 

3. Revitalising Body Oil with Yarrow and Birch

Another great hydrating winter product with forest-scent nuances. I used this organic oil after a soothing hot bath. The effect was very refreshing and pampering — you can get a lot out of only a few drops. The scent gives a nice energy boost. What I like about oils is that they keep the moisture locked in for a long while, which definitely speaks of their advantage over body lotions. Visible results: smoothness and more even skin complex. Love the nostalgic glass apothecary bottle, which should help to preserve the right consistency for longer. A great organic, more natural equivalent to the infamous Johnson’s baby oil. 

Johanna tested...

4. Peppermint Floral Water/Toner

If you are a tea-lover, like me, you will most certainly love this product. I find peppermint to be very soothing, yet refreshing at the same time — sounds like the perfect toner to wake you up in the morning. It smells of fresh garden peppermint leaves and reminds me of summer. Have you ever tried fresh peppermint tea? Ice it down in the hot summer and it becomes the most refreshing drink. Now that is what this floral water takes me back to! I like having that tiny joy in my everyday. It comes in a regular spray bottle inside a quirky box decorated in fun earthy patterns. What makes it even more unique is its architectural shape.

5. Hydrating Face Oil with Chamomile and Borage

I have discovered the wonderful range of face oils just recently and natural products like this continue to impress me. We had below -20 Celcius weather this past week in the Northern Europe and this Dabba face oil came in handy. I have very dry skin during our crisp winters, so much so that even the best moisturisers cannot fix it for the entire day. This face oil, however, did the trick. After applying it in the morning, it kept my skin fresh, hydrated and oh-so-soft throughout the whole day. I assume that unlike face creams, the oil is not that susceptible to cold weather — which is just fantastic! Tea-scented things seem to be the repetitive theme, because this product reminds me of the fresh chamomile tea my Russian grandma used to make, with chamomile flowers from her garden. You can feel the power of nature. It comes in a lovely small bottle with a droplet cap. Very handy to have with you when you go about your daily business.

6. Calming Body Oil with Linden and Calendula

Another huge hit for me. It does exactly what it says on the bottle — calms your senses. This one takes me to my favourite season, spring, and I can picture the linden trees around my country home blooming and the bees buzzing away in their usual busy manner. I wish I had a bubble bath product that smelled like this. Like the face oil, it instantly absorbs into your skin, so you don’t have to worry about the greasiness. The moisturising effect lasts for longer and you never need to use much. Completely worth it! This one has a regular bottle, nothing fancy. But it’s 100% natural — it does not need all the glitz and glamour. Dabba is pure, honest and Nordic. Perfect for someone who values taking care of their skin and is on the hunt for products that have a youth-restoring effect.

http://www.dabba.lv/en/par-mums

GIVEAWAY:

To reward our readers for their loyalty, we are giving away a refreshing bottle of DABBA Birch Leaf Water for mixed and oily skin and a bottle of DABBA Strengthening Hair oil with Birch and Nettle. Both products for one lucky winner!

BLACK_Hairoil_50ml_bottleonly.png

To enter our first ever giveaway:

1.   Make sure you have liked ‘Savant Magazine’ on Facebook.

2.  Simply share this post on your timeline and quote ‘Nordic Plant Magic’. 

3. The winner of our first giveaway will be announced on Thursday, January 19th, 2017 23:59 UTC. You are welcome to share until Wednesday, January 18th, 2017. 

 

#WeAreTesting MOSHI Natural Beauty

Step into the New Year by replacing your old beauty favourites with new more environmentally friendly ones — January is the right time to reconsider our values, recreate ourselves and prepare for a new beginning, leave behind our mistakes, and make vital, lasting changes in our lifestyles to act for a better world, I believe. 

Estonian organic beauty brand Moshi is delivering its herbal spell to the customer longing for trustworthy and effective, yet natural products. Their range of natural goodies, with a loyal Made in Estonia trademark, include all-natural, paraben-free shampoos, facial oils, body creams, scrubs and blends, and they have taken it as far as bringing their take on soy candles to the market, as part of well-being and personal care range. We were immediately allured by their fun, boosting product labels, such as ‘Naughty Girl’  (appropriate name for a body scrub) or ‘Love What You Do’.  These elegant bottles with witty black-and-white labels are loyal showstoppers in every bathroom. If nothing else motivates you to start your day on a positive note, these funny Moshi captions surely do even in the gloomiest winter mornings… 

Hanna-Amanda tested… 

1. ’Naughty Girl’ Raspberry-Blackcurrant Body Scrub

'Naughty Girl' Raspberry-Blackcurrant Body Scrub by Moshi

'Naughty Girl' Raspberry-Blackcurrant Body Scrub by Moshi

When it comes to skincare products, I often want something pampering and luxurious, yet natural and refreshing. Well, there’s no need to compromise — you can be sure this Moshi body scrub has got you covered. I dipped into a steamy bath over Xmas to try its natural spell out. This luxurious body scrub immediately awakens your senses to an oasis of mmm… an extravagantly sweet infusion of summer berries. Letting your body soak after applying the scrub, you realise it’s the heavenly combo blended with olive, raspberry and blackcurrant oils. I don’t know about you, but my skin is receptive to dryness in winter, so I feel it is vital to keep that extra moist securely locked in.

The pampering scrub used before shower oils proved to be an effective way to slough away dead skin cells and get a smooth, radiant texture back instead of my fatigued and dry winter skin. After pampering myself with this lavish moisturising body scrub, I encountered visible results: skin happened to be soft, radiant and well moisturised, revealing a renewed radiance. The sweet magical smell on your skin lasts for days after use… even so, a few people had to discreetly inquire about the source referred to as mystical ‘sweet scent on your skin’.  Are you up for a deep down skin cleanse twice a week?  If yes, you might find out soon you have indeed been a degree naughtier… 

2. ‘Love What You Do’ Pumpking Sea Buckthorn Organic Shampoo

Give your lifeless bangs a real powerful revamp by massaging this soothing paraben-free shampoo on your damp hair and scalp. To begin with, I was happy to discover the texture of this shampoo is quite liquid-y and lightweight, as a sharp contrast to many other more complex haircare products I own. ’Love What You Do’ SLS and paraben free shampoo made with citrus essential oils and aloe vera gently cleanses while rejuvenating dull and dry hair, while pumpkin and sea buckthorn take effect to replenish and restore dry hair, helping to recreate texture and pave the way for shinier bangs at the same time. Even though pumpkins and anything alike have never been my favourite thing, the fragrance is mild and delicate enough not to notice, leaving a rather refreshing feel. My hair showed an improved shine and texture, so I will definitely continue using it as an everyday treat to my dry and misbehaved hair. So long unpleasant morning showers. 

Johanna tried & tested…

3. ‘Good Ideas’  Face Oil with Pumpkin and Sea Buckthorn

‘Good Ideas’  Face Oil with Pumpkin and Sea Buckthorn by Moshi

‘Good Ideas’  Face Oil with Pumpkin and Sea Buckthorn by Moshi

I must be honest – at first I was a bit weary of the idea of a face oil. I have used oils for my hair before, but never for my face. We always want to get rid of oily skin, so it did not make sense to add more oil to it. I am happy to admit, however, that I was mistaken. Moshi’s 'Good Ideas' face oil is 100% natural and you can definitely feel that. Instead of making my face oily, the product quickly absorbed into my skin, resulting in a soft-as-a-baby’s-skin feel. It gave me a healthy glow. During this week of testing I discovered that it’s a great product to use before applying make-up as it nourishes the skin and creates a good base to apply make-up on. The tiny 50ml bottle will last you ages, even if used daily, and it’s comes in a lovely travel sized packaging, so you can always have it with you. 

4. All That Jazz Soy Wax Tealights with Teakwood Scent

Candles are candles, I feel. They don’t have a strong smell, which is good, if you’re into that mellow scent. I have no complaints. A big plus, I guess, is that if you want to be all-natural, then soy wax candles are the way to go, and Moshi does have a variety to choose from. I will certainly check out their other scents as well, this one just wasn’t one for me. 

I love the no-bullshit attitude of the packaging and the ingredients. You know what you are getting and don’t get distracted by yet another pretty bottle, which might not boast great components. It’s the simplicity of Moshi’s products that makes them so unique and elegant. The fun slogans on their packaging are especially memorable, making something simple boldly stand out on your beauty counter. 

http://www.moshi.ee